[Enginerd]

Hi Guys, First Post. Picked myself up a 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara SQ625 last week for a good price, but needs a little work. Cracked radiator with a slow leak, even though the timing kit was done 40,000 kays ago there is mild leak from both rocker covers and the rear shocks are cactus.

From what I can gather, oil leaks are fairly common from these H25A donks, I’m thinking of giving it a cleanup whilst replacing the radiator and dropping some UV dye in it to confirm suspicions and compile a list of required seals.

QUESTIONS FOR THE COLLECTIVE
I want to lift this thing up as far as possible whilst staying legal. Research tells me that I can do an extra 50mm in suspension and 25mm on the wheels in NSW. Is anybody aware of Suspension and MT Tyre package that's a good fit for these bodies? And do they require any extra brackets, bushes or brake line extensions for a 2 inch lift?

Considering:
Dobinsons 50mm Suspension Package
Webco Shocks and King Springs

Open to suggestions on switching from an Alloy wheel to steel with a more suitable offset to accommodate bigger tyre.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

[fordem]

I strongly suggest a "matched suspension package", where the springs, shocks & struts are all supplied by the same source and presumably have been tailored to work with each other, I don't know if Dobinsons does this, but, Old Man Emu (OME) does, OME, however, won't give you a 50mm lift, it'll be closer to 40mm. Webco shocks with King springs are pretty much guaranteed not to be matched.

I have not used the Dobinsons package for the Grand Vitara, I have used their springs on a Mitsubishi, for which they do not offer shocks & struts, and in my opinion the springs are too stiff, I do have the OME package on my GV, and I think it gives a very good ride, if OME had anything for this model of the Pajero, that's what I would have fitted.

I cannot offer advice on what is legally acceptable, but I can tell you what I'm running - OME springs, shocks & struts along with 235/70R16 all terrains on the factory alloys - the front will require minimal trimming of the front bumper and relocation of plastic fender liner directly behind the bumper to clear the outer edge of the tyre as it turns, the steering rack will need to be properly centered and the toe correctly set, and the inner edge of the tyre will just rub the frame behind the strut when on full lock - just as in not enough for you to feel it in the steering, but you'll see the shiny spot where the paint was polished away. A rim with more offset would probably eliminate the rubbing on the frame, but would require more trimming in front and possibly foul the plastic trim at the back of the arch. I ran 225/70R16 on the factory alloys before going to the 235, and they will clear without trimming or rubbing provided the rack is properly centered and the toe correctly set.

You could if you so choose, fit a panhard bar relocation bracket at the rear, OME does not provide this, but they are available from other sources, I have not bothered to source one and don't see the need, extended brake lines are not required with the OME package and neither are camber correction bolts.

[Gwagensteve]

I think Fordem has pretty much nailed it there.

I'd be much less concerned about "lifting it up as far as possible" and much more concerned about wheel travel, handling and geometry. OME struts offer significantly more wheel travel in the front, which is excellent.

The most popular tyre size on GV's is 225/75/16. It will lightly catch the leading edge of the front wheel arch, but it's not a big deal to massage the wheel arch slightly to provide clearance. I can't comment on whether it's a legal fitment.

There is no need for offset rims, they won't improve tyre clearance, in fact they'll make it worse.

As Fordem points out, with the OME kit there is no need for other aftermarket suspension parts.

If you require more lift/wheel travel than the OME kit provides, the car likely won't be legal without engineering approval for one reason or another regardless.

[ZUZUKI]

Hi Enginerd,

x 3 of the above - OME just works as well as anything & better than most - gives 35-40mm above stock & that's all you need.
Get 50mm hide height in suspension out of your head - that is for bigger cars - a GV at that height is less capable & busts stuff more readily than at the lower height.
I know it's a NSW 'thing' to have stupid tall cars, but it's just stupid.

225/75R16 is the sensible / sane tyre, but even that is slightly over the max height.
Original placarded tyre is 235/60R16 = 688.4mm O.D.
225/75R16 = 743.9mm = +55.5mm divided by 2 = 27.75mm - just over the 25mm permitted, which is 738.4mm O.D.
Just about everyone make a 225/75R16 though & it hasn't seemed to cause anyone any problems in running that size.
An alternative is 208/80R16 which is a rare size (BFG M/T km3 though) at 734mm O.D. - look a bit skinny on the factory 7" wide rims, but are a permitted fitment.
Or 225/70R16 - even rarer (Nankang FT-9) at 722mm O.D. both of which are legal.
The sensibly biggest tyre is 245/70R16, but not legal & a bit of mucking around to fit & also not that common a size.
245/75R16 can be made to fit with a bit more work.
Anything bigger (like 265/75R16 or 235/85R16 look stupid big / cop bait material & take a heap of work (like a body lift or major car cutting) to fit.

Talking wheels, the shallow step in the disc hat means that the calipers get in the way of just about everything in the aftermarket wheel world. 15" anything won't clear - stick to the factory options - 1 style of steel slotted or at least 5 styles of alloys (including XL-7) - all the same 16 x 7" & same offset.

No need for any longer lines or panhard brackets etc - but, the rear diff breather hose will pull off at full droop on a hoist.
There are front diff 'rotation' brackets available - probably worthwhile if you plan on going crazy hard 4WD in it - as is putting in a steel front diff assembly from a manual (if yours is an auto with alloy housing & centre) - have to swap diff ratios somewhere though - autos are lower geared than manuals, which is unusual.

Oil leaks are a bit more common on these engines than I would like.
Rocker covers are a PITA to get off - all the intake & injector rails have to come off = heaps more time than you would think & bits everywhere.
The bastard leak is from an 'o ring' between the block & the 'top' alloy sump - not far from the front of the engine on the P/S. Really hard to get at - front diff bits out to drop sump - just, or engine up as far as it can go (do while all the intake is off so that stuff doesn't hit the firewall). Or pull the engine out - really.
Front crank seal while you have the radiator out. Rear main seal while you have the engine out to fix the o ring leak - obviously that is the better thing to do if the rear main seal is leaking, as pulling the gearbox still won't let you do the o ring.

Have fun,
Rgs Michael

[Enginerd]

Thanks Guys for helping me make up my mind, all really great answers. I got a quote for a set of OME's all round, which was twice the price of the eBay kits, but that was to be expected and I think I'll roll with 225/75R16's in a aggressive AT. ARB have quoted FIRM on the shocks, they're no longer listed on the OME website so I was unable to find any tech info. Does anybody have any old spec sheets or more info of how firm is firm?

I'm not going out to test limits and break parts, I'm just trying to get to the camping spots that are becoming increasingly difficult to reach thanks to the weekend warrior yahoo's making lakes outa bog holes and shredding the trails into trenches.

As for the oil leak(s), my first guess is from the front of the sump, but I wont know until I get under there and clean her up. Fingers crossed its not the o ring, but after a tank of fuel I haven't noticed a drop on the dip stick.

[fordem]

OME's spec sheets don't list any detail on the shocks, and I wouldn't describe them as firm - what's important to me is that they are matched, both in terms of valving and travel, to the OME springs.

You may find with the 225/75s that you need to massage the rear arches to avoid contact with the tires, depending on how the vehicle is loaded and the suspension cycles.

[Enginerd]

Had a chance to get my hands dirty over the weekend, and of course I've got more questions. Slapped a new radiator in, filters, oils and gave it a tubs whilst it was up on ramps. A mate had a bottle of Rislone Rear Main Sealant that never made it into a previous clunker so I thought I would give it a shot.

After a long idle and a 10K trip home there was no drips on the cardboard the next morning, and no drops from valve cover onto the exhaust. Success, or so I thought. The next day we did about 200ks and parked it back up on the cardboard. This morning, I found a few drops on the passenger side that I believe is coming from that dreaded O Ring and blown back. Bugger! It looks like a right bastard to reach so I'm assuming the Band Aid solution like the Permatex Spray Sealant is out of the question? Do we know if anybody has had luck with that stuff?