Gwagensteve wrote: Just to be clear, the shock relocators don't add any shock travel at all. They move the lower mount up, which moves the shock travel relative to the axle. This will permit (lets say) 30-40mm more droop, at the expense of 30-40mm of lost compression.
If, like most aftermarket shocks designed for use with longer springs, the replacement shocks are already longer than the standard shocks, then you need to be very careful to ensure that there is sufficient compression travel left in the shock absorber left when the suspension is fully compressed.
The factory normally allows 25mm or more of compression left in the shock with the axle sitting on the bumpstop. This is to allow for a heavy landing where the bumpstop might compress a lot - 50% or more. If the "lift" shocks fitted are already 15-20mm longer fully compressed (common) and the shock relocators add 30-40mm to the compressed length of the shock/bracket assembly, then it's not hard to see that the potential is there for your shocks will compress before the axle reaches the bumpstop.
At best, this might never raise its head as a problem. At worst it could result in broken shock hardware which will then push the shock through the floor of the car. Quite common with GQ patrols and over length shocks back in the day.
The burden of working this stuff out rests with the owner when you are mixing and matching parts from various kits.
I'm not having a go at you at all Toy Machine, but as this is the noobie section I thought I'd just clarify as there's lots of misconcpetions out there about added travel and "2" shocks" etc.
Steve.
I'll add that Jimny rears have a ridiculously long compressed length for their travel so unlike most other 4wds, reducing the the distance between the shock mounts isn't necessarily a bad idea. They have 350mm on the bumpstops for 6" of usable travel. Even with a 40mm shock relocator there's enough space for an 8" travel conventional/cheap shock but you'd have to do some measuring/research. For example a 40mm OME shock at 314mm compressed would bottom out before you hit the bumpstops if you had 40mm relocators.
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using a hole saw without the center drill which is as close the OD of the rubber part of the Bush, go at it from each side, tap the rubber out, use a hacksaw to carefully cut the outer metal of the Bush (don't go into the arm), then use a point chisel, facing slightly into the bush, as not to damage the machined face of the arm, give it a few hits and the metal outer of the old bush buckles inwards and simply taps out. took me 45 minutes to remove all four on the front.