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Jezza86

Platinum Supporter
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am Posts: 2155 Location: Nhulunbuy 0880
Vehicle: 2010 jimny
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 Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 2:11 pm |
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is there a way to pull this stud, without a stud puller. ive asked my entire town, on both noticeboards if anyone has got one but no joy so far. had to cut the rounded off nut off with the grinder, and i'm apparently not very good at that...   
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mnemonix

az supporter
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1409 Location: Newcastle NSW
Vehicle: '96 LWB trayback
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 Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 2:23 pm |
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If you didn't know, you'd normally use 2 nuts tightened against each other then use a spanner on the inside one to back the stud out. Despite the damage to that stud, it would probably still work but you may need to heat it with the oxy or map torch first. Probably want to clean those threads with a die or thread file first too. Can't see why it would be more than a 20 minute job.
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Jezza86

Platinum Supporter
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am Posts: 2155 Location: Nhulunbuy 0880
Vehicle: 2010 jimny
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 Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 2:26 pm |
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have wrecked the thread on the only 2 nits i have that fit, that i dont need elsewhere on the new manifold. the thread is just too far gone to get nuts onto unfortunately. going to go spray more cats piss on it and give it a tap with the hammer and see if the vise grips can twist it at all but also tried that with the nut and nothing moved there. had no troubble with any other bolt but this one was just a asshole...
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want33s

az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8135 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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 Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 2:37 pm |
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Find a nut that slips over the stud. Weld the end of the stud to the nut. Leave to cool. Unscrew stud with spanner/socket on nut.
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Jezza86

Platinum Supporter
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am Posts: 2155 Location: Nhulunbuy 0880
Vehicle: 2010 jimny
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 Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:24 pm |
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ended up getting some yield off a bloke here in town,. stuff is freaking magic you could actually see it getting sucked into the thread. vice grips did the rest, studs out, and found a bolt to replace it. just need to trim a few mill off the bolt so its short enough, as i don't want washers sticking out like dogs balls on my shiny new headders
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Mike57

az supporter
Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2011 11:09 am Posts: 1009 Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: Suzuki Jimny 2009
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 Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:30 pm |
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So what is "yield". Googled it and cant find it.
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Jezza86

Platinum Supporter
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am Posts: 2155 Location: Nhulunbuy 0880
Vehicle: 2010 jimny
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 Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:19 pm |
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A green aerisol tin. Ill try to find some and get a pic. Its not lube like wd40 its more like contact cleaner in composition I think.
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1DYX
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 2:48 pm Posts: 435 Location: Eastern Suburbs WA
Vehicle: 1997 Sierra SJ80
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 Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 6:27 am |
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Jezza86

Platinum Supporter
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am Posts: 2155 Location: Nhulunbuy 0880
Vehicle: 2010 jimny
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 Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:12 am |
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thats the one. interesting about the atf/ acetone mix. might give that a go! it will need a good shake to emulsify them. acetone and oil arnt best mates.
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Blakey
Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2012 6:11 pm Posts: 464 Location: Brisbane, Petire
Vehicle: Jimny 3"lift Flares 31's
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 Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 5:53 pm |
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yield is like WD40 but far better its a lubricant/rust loosener, and protects against rust. i use it all the time at work and it pretty awesome for preventing rust on bare metal parts. just spray on wipe excess off and it drys iv yet to see a part rust that iv put it on
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Jezza86

Platinum Supporter
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am Posts: 2155 Location: Nhulunbuy 0880
Vehicle: 2010 jimny
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 Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 7:12 pm |
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i know that now, i used a whole can of wd40 and got nowhere in 2 days. yield had it free in under 2 minutes...
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