[anDy86]

Hi All,
I’m in the process of changing my external regulated alternator to an internal regulated alternator. I have sorted out the three pin plugs and now it’s down to grounding. So just to put things in a bit more context:

• I have relocated my alternator to the other side of the engine – Previously the power cable went from my starter motor the back of the alternator. It is now hooked up directly to my battery
• Negative Terminal is grounded to my Engine
• I have checked the back of my starter – its not grounded to anything
• Alternator is currently not grounded either

My original plan was to ground both the Starter Motor and Alternator to the engine however a mate told me all I would need to do is ground my engine to my chassis as the alternator and starter motor are basically already connected to the engine by bolts. Grounding to the engine is not the best as the engine mounts have rubber in between the metals.

Q1. Will everything work if I ground only from the engine to chassis?

Q2. Is it overkill if I also decide to ground alternator and starter if engine has already been grounded?

Q3. I now have a higher amperage Alternator (75amp) and was advised to also purchase a fusible link incase I burn out anything so purchased an 80amp fusible link (looks like this http://www.ryda.com.au/Aerpro-AP466-80- ... /ap466.htm). Would I be attaching this between alternator to ground?

[fordem]

The norm is to connect the battery negative to BOTH the body and the engine - you need to have a negative return from the engine because of the starter/alternator/ignition/etc. - and also from the body for the lights and other accessories. Separate grounds from the alternator & starter are not required as these are bolted directly to the engine block - I should point out that it is quite common to connect the battery negative to block ground using the starter mounting bolts.

The fusible link will connect to the battery positive, all electrical connections other than the starter feed (including the alternator output) will then connect to the fusible link

[want33s]

What does "101" mean?

[anDy86]

Thanks for the info fordem

So by doing batery negative to Body and Engine, i will not need to ground from engine to body?

i'll include the fusable link to the Positive

[anDy86]

want33s wrote:

What does "101" mean?

"101" is like a basic introduction of something

[fordem]

anDy86 wrote:

So by doing batery negative to Body and Engine, i will not need to ground from engine to body?

Strictly speaking it's not necessary, but if you're running EFI I would add it.

[want33s]

Standard 1.3 Sierra and 1.6 Vitara has two earth (negative) leads from battery. One to body and one to starter or close as well as an earth strap from distributor to firewall.

Grounding of individual components isn't necessary unless they are insulated somehow.

[anDy86]

Thanks Want33s and fordem - I have connected another earth from negative battery terminal to body using 8gauge wire which should do the trick

I have another electrical related question which is more related to the alternator. Three wires were identified using a test light by my friend. it was late, we had beers blah blah blah.

We got down to 1x constant power 1x ignition power and 1x warning lamp. was very sure i jotted these correctly on a notepad to connect up and now he has gone overseas. Connected these wires to the back of my aternator, connected battery and the battery lamp is ON when no keys are in the ignition.

How would you test for the warning lamp to come on?

unplug all three wires from alternator, connect battery, put test light on postive and see which wire turns the lamp on from dash?

Or - will only one wire make the battery lamp show up?

not the greatest will electrical stuff so please help

[fordem]

My recollection on a Suzuki is three wires on the alternator - output (to a separate stud), and two (warning light & ignition power) on a circular plug - I know many other vehicles use three wires on that circular plug - so - what alternator are you using?

I can find a couple of different Suzuki charge circuits if you're using a Suzuki alternator.

[anDy86]

I am running a toyota engine with a now generic Lucas branded alternator so it's a little tricky.

Not sure if the external reg is a suzuki one but i have the below wires from my external regulator that i spliced into:

Yellow = constant power
White/Black = warning lamp
Yellow/Red = Ignition (Charge)

on the back of the alternator i have:

Ind = for the warning lamp
+ = either constant or eignition power
+ = either constant or eignition power

B+ = power that goes to + on battery

Just had a bit of a thought that maybe one of the wires i have connected to the + could be my warning light as i was when i removed the two +'s out the light came off.

i'll have a check tomorrow morning

[fordem]

It's been over 20 years since I've seen a lucas alternator much less worked on one - I don't think I can help much - maybe Royce can.

[anDy86]

Turns out i had my wires mixed up. Its all sorted now.

Thanks all for the help