[Veggiesoup]

Does anybody know or have a good thread with a reasonable way to lengthen their gear and tranfer lever as they have sunken after a 2" body lift??

[atari4x4]

my transfer lever was extended 3" by welding on a length of steel rod with a hole drilled & tapped to take the screw in the transfer lever nob & my gear lever was just bent to suit.

pretty sure Jester ended up fitting the gear lever backwards & it was fine, you might still have to clearance the shifter hole to get 2nd, 4th & reverse.

[Veggiesoup]

Yea filled with all the crappy plastic and rubber makes those gears impossible to select so threw that out for weight reduction at the moment :p will give those a crack tonight thanks any special way to remove the levers or they just pull off?

[abclarke]

Must have short arms, its only 2"

[Veggiesoup]

Just another quick question I don't know much about carbis but at the moment my car is running super lean and it's horrible from stock what size jets would I increase to? I've heard you just go 2 sizes bigger I'n the main is that correct? I have a G16A..

[Jackson]

Not many people go changing the jets from factory. If its running lean its more likely you have a vacuum leak somewhere or your carby could be a bit dirty inside. I'd try giving it a good clean before replacing jets. Assuming you have the stock carb.

[KEENSY85]

Jackson wrote:

Not many people go changing the jets from factory. If its running lean its more likely you have a vacuum leak somewhere or your carby could be a bit dirty inside. I'd try giving it a good clean before replacing jets. Assuming you have the stock carb.

Changing the jets is very common it is often done part of the tuning process, just a quick question is it running rough like coughing and spluttering because if not and its just running lean and ur shire its just running lean turn the mixture screw up.

Also what colour are the plugs?(light. Or dark)

I'm not a pro with carbies. But maybe do a quick search about bassic carb tunning it might give u some pointers.

[Reubs]

Jackson wrote:

Not many people go changing the jets from factory. If its running lean its more likely you have a vacuum leak somewhere or your carby could be a bit dirty inside. I'd try giving it a good clean before replacing jets. Assuming you have the stock carb.

X2,

I had a G16 running an oversize-jetted Sierra carby.

I took it to a carby specialist and he recommended putting standard jets in after he had a look at it. He tuned the carby with a gas analyser running standard jets.

[Veggiesoup]

Ah, ok well the plugs are corroded they are lacking that much fuel you can hear it sucking the air, when you take off is the problem you put your footdown and it just sucks the air and goes nowhere wait a couple seconds then she kicks I'n and takes off abit rough, I was thinking maybe fuel pump or blocked jets

[KEENSY85]

Try swaping plugs mate from No.1 to No.4(I think there the right 1s 1 to 4 some one will correct me if I'm wrong) pump the pedal twice kick her over it should clean the carbie out by back fireing through the carb. It sounds like it is super dirty u may even need to over haul ur carb

[want33s]

KEENSY85 wrote:

just a quick question is it running rough like coughing and spluttering because if not and its just running lean and ur shire its just running lean turn the mixture screw up.

Sierra carbies don't have a primary jet mixture screw...

They do have an IDLE mixture screw but this ONLY effects idle fuel/air ratio and has absolutely no effect on running mixture.


To the OP:
Sierra carbies are mixture set at the factory, if yours is running lean it is a vacuum leak not a mixture problem.
How do you know it IS lean?

KEENSY85 wrote:

Try swaping plugs mate from No.1 to No.4(I think there the right 1s 1 to 4 some one will correct me if I'm wrong)

Yep you are wrong....
Try swapping PLUG LEADS not plugs. (2-3)

[atari4x4]

Veggiesoup wrote:

Does anybody know or have a good thread with a reasonable way to lengthen their gear and tranfer lever as they have sunken after a 2" body lift??

here are some chitty pics of my bent gear lever, it was bent like that to avoid punching the dashboard every time when going for 1st, 3rd or 5th, still needed to take a little bit out of the trans tunnel to get 2nd, 4th & reverse.





trying to find the pic of the cut in the trans tunnel but my photobucket album is nearly 2400 images in one big bucket.

EDIT:

cut on blue line.


for the gear lever boots I got a 2nd one & chopped the majority of it off & used that to secure the leather shifter boots elastic base to it & then the cut down boot located in the centre console bit like stock (can see the underside of the console/boot in the 2nd pic) the stock one was pushed down into the tunnel & the cuts were extended in the flat rubber seal so it didn't restrict movement.

[Veggiesoup]

yea thanks for that i tried a can oxy to bend her but it didnt work so ill have to get the big boy out and bend her up more heat into her is a WEBER 32/36 carby conversion kit a bad idea?? they about $550 and mines nackered i've found so looking at new ones

[atari4x4]

don't use heat you will damage the rubber filled gearstick... it's an outer & inner & there is rubber in there to dampen the gearbox vibrations etc.

mine was bent in the vice cold with a long pole over the top for leverage.


how have you determined that the carby is rooted?

i'd be getting it rebuilt before bolting a weber on, they need a few tweaks to get them to perform well offroad... heaps of info on what needs to be done to them.

what side of town are you on, try either of these places.

Auto Carburettor Services
55 Norfolk Road Marion SA 5043‎
(08) 8298 7144

Sprint Auto Carburettor Service
189 Bridge Road Ingle Farm SA 5098‎
(08) 8349 4468

[Veggiesoup]

oh ok i wont use the oxy then =p yea i called they quoted $350 for a rebuild.. but yea ive checked all over the carby and found no hoses off i might put my sisters stock airbox on that could fix it will see but i doubt it and i think its a return spring? im not sure the flap is permanetly open fully, ive got new plugs etc might get new leads but didnt want to put new plugs in and fk them because the others are getting pretty nackered due to no fuel

[atari4x4]

no airbox won't be helping, how have you got the air filter set up?

$350 is still cheaper than $550 for the weber

[Veggiesoup]

just thought may aswell go all out and get a weber for abit more..abit more go aswell as the other day was going down the road doing 90 thought i'd put my foot down apparantly i was flat foot.. plus its brand new compared to rebuild idk.. atm its the stock box base cut out into a circle with a aftermarket arfilter squashed onto it with a peice of steel ofsetting the nut to bolt it down. sounds dodgey yea =p

[atari4x4]

i say you should do your research before buying one.

[Veggiesoup]

yes true i see the webers are notorious for stalling on big inclines the rebuild could be the better approach unless i can get a brand new carby the same for a similar price.. thanks for that =)

[atari4x4]

pretty sure Poita had his carby rebuilt by Sprints, his had a faulty secondary diaphragm, could be a similar issue to yours.

[Veggiesoup]

maybe,should i get my timing right before or after my carby is fixed?? i think its slightly out at the moment

[TZAR]

Veggiesoup wrote:

Does anybody know or have a good thread with a reasonable way to lengthen their gear and tranfer lever as they have sunken after a 2" body lift??

[atari4x4]

stop suggesting that we play with you shaft & nuts TZAR.

the transfer lever has no threaded section on it & yes definately get everything else sorted before wasting money on a weber

[Veggiesoup]

oh no im just going to get mine rebuilt after reading all about weber problems =p i dont like how it dies now after going up a incline for to long..

[Jester]

atari4x4 wrote:

my transfer lever was extended 3" by welding on a length of steel rod with a hole drilled & tapped to take the screw in the transfer lever nob & my gear lever was just bent to suit.

pretty sure Jester ended up fitting the gear lever backwards & it was fine, you might still have to clearance the shifter hole to get 2nd, 4th & reverse.

i bent mine as close to the base as possible, then fitted backwards, doesnt foul anything no cutting to the floor (in hindsight would bend a touch less), but cos my levers were so strong i just cut off the transfer and welded windmill rod on and shaped to suit (just use a 2inch section of black dripper hose) and it fitted the knob too

[Veggiesoup]

Yea I don't really have the tools so I just took it to the engineer and got him to press the existing bend at the base of the gear stick to straighten it up then got him to weld 2" rod to extend the transfer lever and press it to bend it straight up for $30 I thought why not

[atari4x4]

bargain