[swifty_ano]

So few weeks ago I was driving my vitara when the rear brake shoes let go. Taking all the springs and adjusters out with it.
I replaced all springs, adjusters,brake shoes and wheel cylinders.

What a pain in the ass that was

NOWWWWW! heres where im stuck. I cannot for my life get it too work.
I have bled them numerous times. When car is off, the pedal is hard and the back wheels will lock up. However, as soon as the cars on the pedal goes soft again and I have no breaks.

I have searched a heap of threads but I cant find exactly my issue.

1) I only bleed the rear wheel cylinder.. I noticed a bleed valve on a square thing under the car near the fuel tank.
Do I need to bleed this?

2)I can't adjust the adjusters with the drum on. The drum is tight to put on.
How can I adjust it from the rear

3) hand brake kind of worked, but then i pulled the lever up and heard a bang.... did I snap the cable?

Anyone in the caboolture area able to come help? I urgently need the car for work. I sold the replacement car today

[Scrawny]

First of all bleed all 4 corners plus the proportioning valve that you saw underneath. If that doesn't fix it then clamp all brake hoses, if the pedal improves then left one off at a time till it sinks again.

[swifty_ano]

On my rear wheel cylinders, only the passenger side has a bleeder valve.
So I should bleed:

Left brake caliper
right brake caliper
Rear left wheel cylinder
brake proportioning valve

How much fluid should I use before I can say its not gonna work? i have used a full bottle so far.

[Scrawny]

Start with bleeding the valve first, then the rear cylinder. Then do the front two.

How are you bleeding it? Manually or vacuum or other?

[swifty_ano]

Getting someone to pump the pedal and hold it in. Then I crack the bleed valve, re tighten and repeat

[want33s]

When I bleed brakes I usually don't have anyone to help so I use a few metres of aquarium air line. One end attached to the bleed nipple, the other going to the master reservoir.
Fill the reservoir, open ther bleeder and pump away till no more air comes out, keeping an eye on the reservoir level.
Then move the hose to the next bleeder.
No wasted fluid unless you want to.

[stocker]

want33s wrote:

When I bleed brakes I usually don't have anyone to help so I use a few metres of aquarium air line. One end attached to the bleed nipple, the other going to the master reservoir.
Fill the reservoir, open ther bleeder and pump away till no more air comes out, keeping an eye on the reservoir level.
Then move the hose to the next bleeder.
No wasted fluid unless you want to.

Now that is a good idea... not just a pretty face i see



you won't get the drums on if you've had someone stomp on the pedal

[fordem]

want33s wrote:

When I bleed brakes I usually don't have anyone to help so I use a few metres of aquarium air line. One end attached to the bleed nipple, the other going to the master reservoir.
Fill the reservoir, open ther bleeder and pump away till no more air comes out, keeping an eye on the reservoir level.
Then move the hose to the next bleeder.
No wasted fluid unless you want to.

Have you ever looked at the color of the brake fluid that comes out when you bleed the brakes? How often is it nice & clear like the stuff coming out of a sealed container?

Speaking of sealed containers - have you noticed that the top of the brake master cylinder has a warning imprinted on it, a warning about using brake fluid only from a sealed container?

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the air, unless it's stored in a sealed container - your brake system is not sealed, so the brake fluid in the system is constantly absorbing moisture, which is why it's recommended that it be replaced every few years, in addition to the moisture it becomes contaminated with dirt & rubber particles and rust, which is why it gets the grungy color.

Reusing old brake fluid is a REALLY BAD idea.