[alien]

My hubs were in dire need of rebuilding, so i took some pics of how they come apart so those who don't know aren't afraid to get stuck in.

Tools needed:
- Socket set (to remove the hub cover)
- Needlenose pliers (to undo circlip)
- Small flathead screwdriver / Pick (to help with circlip)
- Grease (i used bearing grease) - Better to use Lithium Grease for water resistance.
- Petrol (to clean old grease off)
- Emery paper / Emery sponge (to take off corrosion)

Step 1: Remove hub assembly, making sure it's in the FREE position, Gently remove the gasket on the inside face.


Step 2: Twist the cog to "lock" the hub.


Step 3: Push down on the cog to compress the spring and twist it past the small retaining post - the assembly will come apart.


Step 4: Remove the circlip on the back of the hub plate.


Step 5: Gently remove the toggle, be careful you don't lose the bearing thats in there.


Step 6: Remove bearing, and using tiny screwdriver or pick take out the spring behind the bearing.


Step 7: Clean all parts (i used petrol and an emery sponge).


Step 8: Lightly grease the toggle and insert the spring. I stretched my spring a touch so it gives a more positive feel when locking and unlocking.


Step 9: Apply a small amount of grease to the bearing and insert it over the spring.


Step 10: Insert the toggle as it came out (lining the bearing up with one of the valleys in the plate). Apply a small about of grease.


Step 11: Replace the circlip. You might need to use the screwdriver to pop it in on the back edge.


Step 12: Apply a touch of grease over the circlip and check the assembly rotates smoothly.


Step 13: Replace the large spring - it only goes on one way (theres a big end and a small end) you can tell by how well it fits at the cog end (should be snug).


Step 14: Twist the cog back into the assembly to its fully down position, and set the dial on the front to FREE.


All done =)

[TryHard]

good job im bet this is going in good tech

[Teracis]

Top effort on the how to.

If you have them you could also use internal circlip pliers (like I bought for doing my transfer case rebuild!)

Also, one pic is broken, don't think it matters though.

Now this was only done to clean them out yes? You didn't actually replace anything but the grease yes?

[alien]

pic fixed - and correct - nothing was replaced. Just everything cleaned and lightly re-greased.

[SuziBlu]

That makes it look very easy. I had a barsted of a time getting the whole thing back together, spring would miss, slip, go where its not meant to, Im sure it was laughing at me, rotten thing, 2nd one was easy.


Always use a grease that contains lithium, its what makes grease water proof.

[alien]

Ah yeah, good idea - i've still got them out (theyre a spare pair) so before i fit them up i'll clean them up and regrease with some dow 55 i have handy.

The bastard of a time you have with the spring missing etc is cos the spring is on backwards =) flip the big spring 180 degrees and it will work fine.

[hooki]

good write up mate , it will defently come in handy when i do mine soon.

[bohuler]

Great write up mate, really good pics. Just a warning for anyone pulling their hub apart, try very very very hard NOT to remove the spring from the hub gear, that is a right royal pain in the arse to put back on!
I was going to write up one of these tech articals, now you have me motivated I will expand on yours and add the whole hub back to the swivel hub including changing wheel bearings!
Thanks for the motivation!
Dave

[alien]

no worries - i didnt expect it to be as helpful as it appears to be... haha

As for the spring in the cog - theres no need to remove it to clean it up really, you can just clean around it. My thoughts are the same on removing it and putting it back in (pain in the ass) - first time i did my hubs i stripped them down including the cog spring and it ended up being a 3 hour job! =)

[TheOtherLeft]

Which spring stops/resists the toggle from turning? Is it the smaller spring (and ball bearing) or the really big spring?

Reason I ask is because one of my hub toggles seems to turn from the UNLOCK position when I'm driving. I can feel that the ball bearing engages when I turn the toggle into UNLOCK/LOCK but it seems to move by itself.

[SierraDan]

I have noticed mine are sometimes locked when they shouldn't be and one is hard to unlock sometimes.

[atari4x4]

this one show a full rebuild of an aisin manual freewheeling hub

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxSBcAyt2WA

[buzbox]

atari4x4 wrote:

this one show a full rebuild of an aisin manual freewheeling hub

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxSBcAyt2WA

cool, Now where's the one for AVM hubs?

[atari4x4]

lol... AMV hubs don't need rebuilding, usually they explode or loose those stupid little screws before they need rebuilding.

[Total_Filth]

Thanks for posting this... should come in real handy when I come to do my hubs which should be here soon.

I've never done it before though and have no idea what grease I should get..... I assume I should be able to get it from super cheap auto?

Can someone point me in the right direction as to what materials i'll need? I have the necessary tools.


TF

[want33s]

Total_Filth wrote:

Thanks for posting this... should come in real handy when I come to do my hubs which should be here soon.

I've never done it before though and have no idea what grease I should get..... I assume I should be able to get it from super cheap auto?

Can someone point me in the right direction as to what materials i'll need? I have the necessary tools.


TF

I would use a boat trailer bearing grease.

[alien]

im using castrol cv grease, its black and in a black tub witha red lid... its got lithium in it etc so should be fine for the task. i've actually pulled a hub off since wiriting this and it still looks great and still has grease in it, so i think its fine.

[Total_Filth]

Thanks fellas.... Reckon I could get either of those from Super Cheap?


TF

[alien]

should do, i got my grease from a local little mechanical store - i'd say supercrap would have something similar.

[Rusho]

Bit off topic...I searched for the write up to rebuild/repack CV's and front bearing's. Anyone know where it is

[atari4x4]

Rusho wrote:

Bit off topic...I searched for the write up to rebuild/repack CV's and front bearing's. Anyone know where it is

i can only find it at the top of pg2 in the old tech articles.
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Ne ... c=2&page=2

[Rusho]

Forgot about that one..thanks gus. Someone should move it to new tech

[DMAC]

LTM21 pointed this out to me this arvo as to why the lock/free cap will only go on one way. This will make it easy to align first time every time.

[zukenutter]

alien wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

SSSIERA wrote:

can u rebuild the stock ones for sierras?

...and here's how:
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... light=hubs

Great tech there. Interestingly I don't remember my hubs having the ball and spring. Doesn't seem to have been a problem though.


Step 5: Gently remove the toggle, be careful you don't lose the bearing thats in there.


Step 6: Remove bearing, and using tiny screwdriver or pick take out the spring behind the bearing.




Mine when stripped

[Gwagensteve]

[SuziBlu]

Steve,

I have worked at sea near all my working life, the only grease we use is lithium based for its water proofing qualities.

If the quote is correct, then every mariner the world over has been tricked and is foolish for spending money on something they know works well, but doesn't.


And every boat trailer builder.

[Gwagensteve]

We might be at cross purposes here, but it's been interesting to research nonetheless.

When I'm referring to "Lithium" grease, I'm referring to LMM/LMB Lithium Disulphide grease, as used in CV's. You could use it in your free wheeling hubs as you'd be running it in the CV's in any case, but I'd use the same grease you'd apply to the wheel bearings.

However, your comment lead me to do some more research on line and in the shed. It seems that about 50% of regular, automotive HTB grease is "lithium" grease too - although it could also be clay based, or a mix of either, however, in automotive terms, we'd be looking for HTB or "Disc Brake Bearing" grease and wouldn't tend to read the fine print as to whether the grease contained any lithium - and in fact, some HTB grease that contains lithium might only contain 3%.

Interestingly, Shell Nautilus Marine grease is a Clay/Lithium mix!

I'd suggest it's important to use the correct grade of grease primarily for bearings and CV's. Some "waterproof" grease isn't rated for disc brake wheel bearings. It's not really important whether wheel bearing grease contains lithium or not, but it's vitally important that the grease used in CV's is lithium Disuphide or LMM. What you run in the FWH's is up to you.

Suzuki recommend a "general purpose" grease for the free wheeling hubs, so you car really run whatever you want in them.

Steve.

[SuziBlu]

Steve,

I have only ever know "lithium" based grease to contain Lithium Disulphide, never heard of any other sort.

Grease and water turn into a shocking gunk, and rust goes beserk, it becomes very thick and does nothing.

Lithium solves this, been at sea 35 years, used it since ever.

[anastasios]

how do you reseat the spring that attaches to the cog gear? it accidentaly came off!!

[Joe]

anastasios wrote:

how do you reseat the spring that attaches to the cog gear? it accidentaly came off!!

It should just sit on the cog gear, or are you talking about the smaller spring bit that's still on the cog on the right side of this pic?