[christover1]

SPARTAN LOCKER INTO SIERRA CARRIER
FIRSTLY. I am not a mechanic or a qualified diff fitter.
This is just how I did it. Not necessarily the correct way.
As instructions supplied were not relevant to a 4 pin Sierra carrier.
They were to suit a 2 pin, with open access.
Just another note,
instructions were emphatic on leaving out all the original thrust washers.
Leaving them in could make for wrong clearances maybe??
It may help somebody.

[lump_a_charcoal]

Nice writeup Christo.

The locating pins look a little more beefy than lockwrong ones...

[christover1]

lump_a_charcoal wrote:

Nice writeup Christo.

The locating pins look a little more beefy than lockwrong ones...

I'm pretty happy with it. Stuck a couple of axles in it, and was able to make it unlock both sides smoothly enough.

[lump_a_charcoal]

Is it for the front or rear?

[christover1]

lump_a_charcoal wrote:

Is it for the front or rear?

front.
I suppose I should have said drive shafts

[Red89]

christover1 wrote:

SPARTAN LOCKER INTO SIERRA CARRIER
FIRSTLY. I am not a mechanic or a qualified diff fitter.
This is just how I did it. Not necessarily the correct way.
As instructions supplied were not relevant to a 4 pin Sierra carrier.
They were to suit a 2 pin, with open access.
It may help somebody.

That seems odd that the instructions were wrong, according to Lowrange the Spartan doesnt suit a 2 pin centre ?

Lowrange wrote:

PLEASE NOTE that if you have a 1990 and up Samurai (normally those that are fuel injected) the carrier in the front is what is called a "2 Pin Carrier." This will not work with a Spartan because they use the factory side gears and cross shaft into the other 3 holes. You would have to source a "4 pin carrier" out of the front of an 1989 and older Samurai.

[christover1]

Red89 wrote:

christover1 wrote:

SPARTAN LOCKER INTO SIERRA CARRIER
FIRSTLY. I am not a mechanic or a qualified diff fitter.
This is just how I did it. Not necessarily the correct way.
As instructions supplied were not relevant to a 4 pin Sierra carrier.
They were to suit a 2 pin, with open access.
It may help somebody.

That seems odd that the instructions were wrong, according to Lowrange the Spartan doesnt suit a 2 pin centre ?

Lowrange wrote:

PLEASE NOTE that if you have a 1990 and up Samurai (normally those that are fuel injected) the carrier in the front is what is called a "2 Pin Carrier." This will not work with a Spartan because they use the factory side gears and cross shaft into the other 3 holes. You would have to source a "4 pin carrier" out of the front of an 1989 and older Samurai.

Yes I agree, very odd.

I had researched forums on fitting while I waited, so didn't matter much to me. OH well

[steak_knife]

same advert say's a sierra front spline is 23 count..

[joeblow]

and where are the pics of using a feeler guage to determine the shim thickness required for proper engagement of the gears?







haha.....good work chris!

[christover1]

steak_knife wrote:

same advert say's a sierra front spline is 23 count..

Even though I knew that, I still had to go out and count to make sure, after seeing that )

I just picked up another complete rear diff, so hopefully get a better carrier out of this one.

[christover1]

joeblow wrote:

and where are the pics of using a feeler guage to determine the shim thickness required for proper engagement of the gears?







haha.....good work chris!

camera battery ran out just before that
I tried to poke feeler gauges thru the side of the carrier, but they kept bending


It also stresses to make sure spacers face right way, but looking for hours at them, they were same both sides

[jonno_racing]

i did the same with mine, neglected to check the clearences...

CLICK CLICK BANG BANG constantly! i would mersuer her up b4 you chuck her back in!

[christover1]

jonno_racing wrote:

i did the same with mine, neglected to check the clearences...

CLICK CLICK BANG BANG constantly! i would mersuer her up b4 you chuck her back in!

how do I check that, the bit it says to check is deep inside the carrier when assembled?

[jonno_racing]

christover1 wrote:

jonno_racing wrote:

i did the same with mine, neglected to check the clearences...

CLICK CLICK BANG BANG constantly! i would mersuer her up b4 you chuck her back in!

how do I check that, the bit it says to check is deep inside the carrier when assembled?

Not a idea! ask joe? i am going to pull mine out and shim it some how!

[christover1]

jonno_racing wrote:

christover1 wrote:

jonno_racing wrote:

i did the same with mine, neglected to check the clearences...

CLICK CLICK BANG BANG constantly! i would mersuer her up b4 you chuck her back in!

how do I check that, the bit it says to check is deep inside the carrier when assembled?

Not a idea! ask joe? i am going to pull mine out and shim it some how!

ok ta

[jonno_racing]

let me know how you go tho!

[christover1]

I had to reco the rear for rwc, which is a lock rite type..seemed to have got that right, so lets hope I get this right too

[christover1]

jonno_racing wrote:

let me know how you go tho!

From what I've read on the ever reliable internet, checking clearances is to make sure it is fitted correctly, with no problems in the other diff parts, it doesnt say to shim if it's wrong, it just says to re check and reassemble

[christover1]

Just another note,
instructions were emphatic on leaving out all the original thrust washers.
Leaving them in could make for wrong clearances maybe??

[christover1]

A bit of "peening"?
So the pins don't work loose with the 5:12 gears.
At least I hope it works.

[steak_knife]

christover1 wrote:

Just another note,
instructions were emphatic on leaving out all the original thrust washers.
Leaving them in could make for wrong clearances maybe??

That & thay wouldn't need em anymore, it's not as if thay are going to be spinning the way thay used to.

Locked if nice..

[christover1]

Thats true, the whole lot turns together most of the time, with just a small movement when unlocking on a corner.

[christover1]

jonno_racing wrote:

i did the same with mine, neglected to check the clearences...

CLICK CLICK BANG BANG constantly! i would mersuer her up b4 you chuck her back in!

All good.
Initially a bit of clik clunk bang, but once bedded in, runs perfectly.
I really can't see what you could shim or adjust anyway.
Probably to make sure it is functioning before assembly.
I did have one sticky locating pin, but that was soon fixed.

[v6zookie]

To make them a bit tighter shims can be put in the original place. This puts more presure on the driven gears. But you need to mesure clerrences accuratly to do this. And this is time consuming to get right

[christover1]

v6zookie wrote:

To make them a bit tighter shims can be put in the original place. This puts more presure on the driven gears. But you need to mesure clerrences accuratly to do this. And this is time consuming to get right

I finished up using the locker in a Vitara 2 pin front carrier.
Was a better and easier result.
It is so tight, I think shims would make it very hard to unlock?
But its working great, will revisit shimming idea, if it wears with time.
Loving the front locked

[Jake terry]

What touk are the bolt ie what foot pounds

[christover1]

Jake terry wrote:

What touk are the bolt ie what foot pounds

I didn't use any torque settings.
I just tighten by feel and experience.
I would not recommend that method for a novice.
Torque settings may be in the workshop manual, or on AZ somewhere.

[Jake terry]

I look in both but the manual doesn't say and I couldn't find it on as ether

[christover1]

This is from a Vitara manual, but should be same as Sierra

[Jake terry]

Cool thanks