A couple of weeks ago, I broke my manual window regulator.
After seeing the price of a replacement even from a wreckers,
I looked for a cheaper alternative. The process below cost a total of $5 and works great.
My window regulator has gone from being a battle to use (before it broke), to being a breeze.
This was done on a SWB Vitara.
Sorry about the phone picture quality. I didn't take any shots of the removal process or the tangled mess of wire around the drum as I was too busy swearing at it.
Things You'll need.
10mm spanner or socket.
Pliers.
Phillips head scew driver.
File.
Hammer.
Wire cutters.
Push bike rear brake cable with crimp. $5 from and cycle shop.
WD-40 or similiar.
Grease.
Patience.
Cost: $5
Total time taken: 1 - 1.5 hours.
First of all remove the door trim, all the bolts and screws holding the regulator to the door and remove the regulator.
This is the part where patience is needed.
Using wire cutters, a screw driver and pliers, remove all the old wire.
A good spray with WD-40 really helps here.
You will need to turn the drum back and forth a few times to get it all out. Use the pliers being careful not to damage the teeth on the metal cog.
Once all the wire's been removed give the drum a good clean up.
The bike cable comes with a metal retainer on the end. This is the end that you will need to insert into the drum. Unfortunately it is slightly too thick, so file down the two long sides that are at right angles to the cable. 0.5mm each side is enough.
You want a tight fit.
Insert the retaining lug into the outside slot and lock into the groove.
Wind on a few turns while keeping pressure on the cable and making sure it threads into the grooves correctly.
Slide the nylon spacers and plastic sheath over the cable remembering that the flanged ends face towards the plastic sheath.
Thread the wire over the TOP roller and take it all the way to the bottom to the end of the rail. Make sure the nylon spacers are in their slots and the plastic cable sheath is pulled tight.
The end of the rail gives you the cable length measurement for the DOWN position of the window.
I cut the wire a few centimetres longer than needed to give me a little extra wiggle room.
Don't cut it too short or the window won't go all the way up!
After cutting the wire to length you need to fix some kind of retaining lug to the end. This needs to be very strong or it will just pull out. Very frustrating if it comes off after putting it all back together.
I used the lug that came with the cable. I recommend soldering it on, however, my I couldn't get it hot enough so I flattened it on with a hammer and threaded it back on itself.
Remove the window carrier by sliding it out of the top of the rail, and slot your cable into place.
Here's how I affixed the cable. No way that's coming out.
Before sliding the carrier back on, put a thin smear of grease on the rail.
Push the carrier back onto the rail taking care to make sure that the cable is coming out the right way.
Slide the carrier down to the bottom of the rail and that's it.
It's ready to go back in!
You'll notice that I didn't put the bottom cable in.
I found that the weight of the widow is plenty enough to bring it down.
The process to add the "down" cable is pretty much the same.
I'll update this post if I decide to put it in later.
One last thing.
Give it a really good test before you put the door fittings back on.
Might save you some hassle.
I hope this is some help to others.
