[christover1]

Considering making something similar to this.
Not copying of course
As it looks to be in my skills/tools/price range.
I be using 5mm plate, I think.
Any imput, ideas, good or bad appreciated.

Would buy one, but freight kills the cheapness of most of them.

[christover1]

More to keep sand and mud out of the undercarriage, but may as well make it rock resistant, too.

[buzbox]

I would make a template out of carboard, cut and paste as necessary, then tranfer it onto tin or light guage steel for final fitment then onto the thick steel you will be using.

To save on weight & fuel I'd use thin stuff 3mm or so, especially if it's mainly sand and mud you want to keep out.

[DarkHorse]

How you gunna fold 5mm? That's what's holding me back. I was thinking around 3mm too, and beefing up strategically with bar/angle/RHS etc.

I like the idea of an extra cross-member between the front arm mounts. I've always wondered why no-one seems to go full width between the chassis rails? Yeah it's more material and more weight, but surely there's still a decent chance of snagging something outside the central 500mm?

My other major thought is protecting bolt heads so they don't get trashed.

Looking forward to seeing how you go!

[christover1]

I bent the sides of the transfer skid plate by scoring inside edge with an angle grinder,
then I used a couple of multi grips, and a bit of angle to keep it straight ish.
I had cut a small V in to allow for the bend.
The longitudinal bends were done by B4T.

If I get a long enough piece of plate, it may be bendable manually lengthways.
Lots of work, but I got time on my side.
May do the 3mm thing yet,
I know I can bend that, but needed in more places,
will take pix as I go.

Will check out the offcuts at the steel joint, for the crossmember bit.
probably find some heavy wall square tube or channel to cut down to suit.

I may try and get round headed bolts for the rear bolts,
don't thingk the front bolts be in harms way much.

I like the cardboard template idea, got heaps of it kicking round.

[DarkHorse]

Fair 'nough. Good luck!

My worry with either countersunk or button head bolts is that the Allen or Phillips slots would be easier to trash than hex bolts. I've thought about an 8mm or so slice of 25NB pipe welded around the bolt heads to protect them, but then you're adding to the snag potential at the same time.

Sorry to hear we won't be seeing you over at Coffin, hope everything's OK.

[christover1]

DarkHorse wrote:

Fair 'nough. Good luck!

My worry with either countersunk or button head bolts is that the Allen or Phillips slots would be easier to trash than hex bolts. I've thought about an 8mm or so slice of 25NB pipe welded around the bolt heads to protect them, but then you're adding to the snag potential at the same time.

Sorry to hear we won't be seeing you over at Coffin, hope everything's OK.

Thanks mate, I'll be OK, just not up to a long cold trip, on a tight bujet,
best I wait fer more cash, health and/or warmer weather.
2 days of wheeling on weekend made me aware I wasn't up to it yet, but I'll get there.


I can't see a reason why I couldn't bolt thru the front of the plate,
not given it much thought yet but looks doable,
it would keep bolt heads in a higher spot than the bash plate.

[DarkHorse]

Front yeah, it's more the cross-members I worry about.

Look after yaself bud.

[christover1]

DarkHorse wrote:

Front yeah, it's more the cross-members I worry about.

Look after yaself bud.

Maybe a small step up/down so bolt heads are protected,
only means a loss of 5mm of ground clearance.
An extra bend could make 3mm plate more appealing.

I must stop thinking now, head hurts

[larry]

mines made from 3mm plate and has taken a fair beating, i welded some rings around the bolt heads on sunday as 2 of 4 got sheared off
the cross folds gave it heaps more strength, got the idea from a BBQ lid

[larry]

this was after its first trip ill get a current pic tomorrow after i remount it

[christover1]

Excellent job,

I was looking at my old bbq as a possible source of metal plate..Bit thin though.

I'd be more equipped to work with 3mm

[Bucketload]

Noob question here, but before I unbolt my smashed-to-buggery transfer case cross member and swap with the straight one that I have picked up, have people played with a bit of a stiffening frame (25mm square tube?) on the bottom of the cross member. I won’t be sticking the straight one in without a bash plate on top, just wondering if a bit extra as well is a good idea or does this just cause more issues?

[jdk81]

Bucketload wrote:

Noob question here, but before I unbolt my smashed-to-buggery transfer case cross member and swap with the straight one that I have picked up, have people played with a bit of a stiffening frame (25mm square tube?) on the bottom of the cross member. I won’t be sticking the straight one in without a bash plate on top, just wondering if a bit extra as well is a good idea or does this just cause more issues?

Big discussion on someone trying to remake the x-member.
After trial and error, calcs, looking at whats available after market, and lots of arguments.
In was best decided the easiest way is to add some plate to the bottom of the x-member to strengthen it.

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=31207

[Built4thrashing]

jdk81 wrote:

Bucketload wrote:

Noob question here, but before I unbolt my smashed-to-buggery transfer case cross member and swap with the straight one that I have picked up, have people played with a bit of a stiffening frame (25mm square tube?) on the bottom of the cross member. I won’t be sticking the straight one in without a bash plate on top, just wondering if a bit extra as well is a good idea or does this just cause more issues?

Big discussion on someone trying to remake the x-member.
After trial and error, calcs, looking at whats available after market, and lots of arguments.
In was best decided the easiest way is to add some plate to the bottom of the x-member to strengthen it.

http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=31207

Wondered how long before this was bought back up again.


Ive been far to busy lately to play about with the ones i made up to add extra strength to them. hope to attack them again in a few weeks. Chris is on the money with the angled sides.

Hey chris ive still got some bent plate here if you wanna have a go at adapting one as a front diff guard. Ill even let you use my bootyfab bender.

[christover1]

Built4thrashing wrote:

Hey chris ive still got some bent plate here if you wanna have a go at adapting one as a front diff guard.\
Ill even let you use my bootyfab bender.

Your booty fab plate bender is brilliant.
Excellent Zook owner thinking.
But I'd need wider sheets than the t-case skids.
What is the max width that could fit?
Due to bolt positions etc,
I'd need minimum 250mm / 10" width

May take you up on the bender offer, see how things go.
Theres a few sheet metal benders round here if I get lazy.

Just rechecked the internet,
no way I will be buying commercial skid plates,
unless one comes up 2nd hand.

[Built4thrashing]

Yes the commercially available ones are quite expensive..... Thats why i started making my own.

When i get home ill measure the max width you can bend with my bender. I think you can easily do 300mm but thats about it.

[christover1]

Built4thrashing wrote:

Yes the commercially available ones are quite expensive..... Thats why i started making my own.

When i get home ill measure the max width you can bend with my bender. I think you can easily do 300mm but thats about it.

Cool.
I'll get on with making the front cross brace bit for it to bolt to, for now.
Bit of support for the A arm mounts can't hurt,
though the LWB has much beefier stock mounts.

Found a perfect bit of Gal square tube in the offcuts foir $3.
Sometimes ya win

[Built4thrashing]

my bender will bend a max of 270mm. not sure if thats enough for you?

[christover1]

Built4thrashing wrote:

my bender will bend a max of 270mm. not sure if thats enough for you?

Possibly not. Won't know till I get started.
But will keep that in mind in case I need it.

I got some 3mm Gal plate coming soon at a very good price (free)
so I will design a guard around that thickness.

Will mean more complex bends to get the strenth,
or double plating here and there,
but 3mm I can bend a lot easier.

[got_bar_work]

I use a big bit of10mm flat bar g clamped over the sheet on the edge of my welding table
Then just bash it with a hamer
I bent a 20mm.lip around my 4mm tank guard
It was hardwork but it did it
Heating with a oxy is so much easier

[DarkHorse]

I think 3mm will be fine, as long as it's mounted solidly and has a bit of shape to it.

Much easier to work than thick stuff

[christover1]

got_bar_work wrote:

I use a big bit of10mm flat bar g clamped over the sheet on the edge of my welding table
Then just bash it with a hamer
I bent a 20mm.lip around my 4mm tank guard
It was hardwork but it did it
Heating with a oxy is so much easier

Thats a good idea, may do a similar thing.

[christover1]

DarkHorse wrote:

I think 3mm will be fine, as long as it's mounted solidly and has a bit of shape to it.

Much easier to work than thick stuff

It was free, so I'll make it work

Often design things around what comes my way.
Can't argue with gal, its in a very wet place.

[christover1]

Made this bit today.
Just got to fit some captured nuts inside and a lick of paint.
Got toooo cold to do any more today.
The rough bits are unseen when fitted, fortunately



PS. Galv makes much more, and much hotter sparks when grinding ouch.
Lucky I don't have a beard now, or i'd a got a quck shave

[larry]

the place i got my bash plate bent at said 5$ a bend, cost 20 bucks and they did the criss cross in the middle too, and when i made my winch cradle went back to the place i got the steel from and got it bent free

[christover1]

larry wrote:

the place i got my bash plate bent at said 5$ a bend, cost 20 bucks and they did the criss cross in the middle too, and when i made my winch cradle went back to the place i got the steel from and got it bent free

Cool, I live next to a suburb full of metal workers, may get bends done, see how I go

[alexvitara]

Is that 75x3mm shs or 75x2mm? How did it fit?

[christover1]

alexvitara wrote:

Is that 75x3mm shs or 75x2mm? How did it fit?

75 x 2.5mm I measured with a crappy tape measure, so could be classed as 3mm
definately more than 2mm.
It was a very tight fit, needs a tap into place.

Was 69mm internal, so I reckon it was 3mm

[alexvitara]

sounds about right. nice work