[christover1]

DarkHorse wrote:

You pretentious git!

Interested to see how those phillips heads hold up after a few removals/reinstalls and some mud...

I have set of back up bolts ready.
They concern me, too.
I have a grinder and an impact screw driver, if needed.
But if any stick, they all get replaced pretty quick.
Front bolts will probably never get a hit,
but rear bolts will.


FARRK ME JUST GOT A HUGE EARTH TREMOR, DOGS GOING NUTS.

[christover1]

Finished and fitted, thanks for input , guidance and ideas from AZ, Vic Zook Club and the internet.
Decided to go with the button heads, but will change them all to normal heads if any give trouble.

After a few days rest, will consider doing a centre skid pan.
Nothing in much in danger under that bit,
but keeping the mud out,
and preventing risk to the rear of front crossmember when reversing,
makes it a good idea to think on.

[atari4x4]

amazing work chris, imagine what you could do if you had a workshop!!!!

i'm coming in late with this but, can i suggest drilling a large hole directly under the sump plug big enough to get a socket & extension up in there so you can dump the oil without having to remove the plate.

[christover1]

atari4x4 wrote:

amazing work chris, imagine what you could do if you had a workshop!!!!

i'm coming in late with this but, can i suggest drilling a large hole directly under the sump plug big enough to get a socket & extension up in there so you can dump the oil without having to remove the plate.

I thought about doing that,
but its another place for crud to get in.
If taking it off to service stuff becomes an issue,
it will get some holes.

Or one of those special u beaut sump plugs.

PS. If I had a workshop, it would have to be heated, carpetted, have a full bathroom, kitchen and a big screen tv

[shandy92]

christover1 wrote:

I thought about doing that,
but its another place for crud to get in.
If taking it off to service stuff becomes an issue,
it will get some holes.

Or one of those special u beaut sump plugs.

PS. If I had a workshop, it would have to be heated, carpetted, have a full bathroom, kitchen and a big screen tv

isnt that a house?? ahahah

looks good mate

[christover1]

shandy92 wrote:

christover1 wrote:

PS. If I had a workshop, it would have to be heated, carpetted, have a full bathroom, kitchen and a big screen tv

isnt that a house?? ahahah

looks good mate

Thanks.

My house is stupidly big for one bloke,
and my garage is stupidly small.
Owner won't let me reverse the purposes.

[got_bar_work]

Rent a shed and set ur camper up in it

[christover1]

got_bar_work wrote:

Rent a shed and set ur camper up in it

Good thinking.

Or just widen my front door and bring the zook into the lounge room

[alexvitara]

nice work Chris. i like the DIY folder too

[christover1]

alexvitara wrote:

nice work Chris. i like the DIY folder too

Thanks.
Always new my fat ass would become a useful tool

[KEENSY85]

larry wrote:

mines made from 3mm plate and has taken a fair beating, i welded some rings around the bolt heads on sunday as 2 of 4 got sheared off
the cross folds gave it heaps more strength, got the idea from a BBQ lid

Did u bend it ur self or pay someone if so how much roughly did it cost?

[DarkHorse]

Nice Chris, come up good.

[christover1]

KEENSY85 wrote:

larry wrote:

mines made from 3mm plate and has taken a fair beating, i welded some rings around the bolt heads on sunday as 2 of 4 got sheared off
the cross folds gave it heaps more strength, got the idea from a BBQ lid

Did u bend it ur self or pay someone if so how much roughly did it cost?

This is Larry's build thread. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=16998&start=30
I think it says he paid a bender to do the bends.

This is bangas thread, very helpful viewtopic.php?f=14&t=26413

[christover1]

DarkHorse wrote:

Nice Chris, come up good.

Thanks.
Trying to rest now, but brain won't stop planning the centre skid pan

[christover1]

christover1 wrote:

britvit wrote:

Great work Chris . Try a new set of brushes in your old grinder

Just killed me cheap ryobi dremel copy now.. I will search for receipt, may still be in warrantee.

Sometimes Ya Win

At 7 months old. Took it back to Bunnings, they not only gave me a new one,
it was also an updated version, better features, and of course all new spinny tool bits.
Had worn out most of the bits I need.
Then they gave me $7 back, as it was cheaper.
So I bought half a chook for lunch.
I know I buy cheap stuff, but if they back it up nicely, I'll stay a customer.

[buzbox]

hmm I need new power tools.


anyways, I think this thread should be moved into good tech for future referance, and possibly see if other similar threads can be merged into this one.. I'll pm the boss about it.

Oh and I "found" a big sheet of 2-3mm steel checkerplate from the fab guy's across the driveway where I work, It was in their scrap metal bin, so I'll be using this thread as a guide.

[christover1]

buzbox wrote:

hmm I need new power tools.


anyways, I think this thread should be moved into good tech for future referance, and possibly see if other similar threads can be merged into this one.. I'll pm the boss about it.

Oh and I "found" a big sheet of 2-3mm steel checkerplate from the fab guy's across the driveway where I work, It was in their scrap metal bin, so I'll be using this thread as a guide.

Free bits are the best.
Checker plate is fine with the ridges pointing up,
so they don't hook up on stuff.

Merging threads is a good idea,
I found a few very useful ones

[christover1]

I have started on the transmission skid pan.
Because my booty fab bender would not cope with long ways bends with short leverage,
I decided on giving the skid pan some shaping, rather than one long piece..
This also adds some rigidity to it, and possibly protect bolt heads a bit..
Tranny crossmember is higher than the engine crossmember,
so I decided to step it up in 3 equal lengths.
Rear will mount through B4T's transfer case skid pan,
with some captive nuts welded to the plate.
This meant I needed to shorten the tranny case skid pan,
which had added advantage of being able to lift it a bit higher up.
Pix will follow once I finish, been a bit busy to stop for pix.
Not much difference in methods to create it,
so just waiting till it is finished.
Unless anyone needs more details.

[christover1]

I decided silver paint would be better,
so scratches dont show up.
Also easier to see dropped nuts n bolts etc
I'm lucky my welds are hidden by paint n mud,
but should hold together.
Fitting tommorrow, so crossing my fingers that it all fits.









Going by the pix, silver don't hide as much as black does,
oh well, silver stays, will soon be mud coloured anyway.

[gvzookdriver]

as long as it does the job doesn't matter what it looks like i mean you wont be able to see it most of the time

[christover1]

gvzookdriver wrote:

as long as it does the job doesn't matter what it looks like i mean you wont be able to see it most of the time

Thats true, and things start to look better with battle scars anyway

[christover1]

christover1 wrote:

DarkHorse wrote:

You pretentious git!

Interested to see how those phillips heads hold up after a few removals/reinstalls and some mud...

I have set of back up bolts ready.
They concern me, too.
I have a grinder and an impact screw driver, if needed.
But if any stick, they all get replaced pretty quick.
Front bolts will probably never get a hit,
but rear bolts will.

Well the button heads didn't last long.
They didn't seize much, but enough to be a pain.
The worse bit was the mud rammed into the slots,
was real hard to get a screwdriver in,
and a bit of a pain cleaning them out.

OH well, ya live and learn.
Í now officially dont recommend button heads.
Just use something you can get a good grip on,
and protect them if possible.

[DarkHorse]

thought that might happen

[christover1]

DarkHorse wrote:

:lol: thought that might happen

I was living in Fantasy Land for a while, but back in real world now

I found a lower profile normal bolt with a large diameter head,
so now be looking through my pile to try and find some more

[christover1]

Pretty happy with the fit.
Ground clearance is acceptable.
Only thing I'd do different would be to make the rear narrower,
ie. less unbolted metal to rattle.
I put an extra bolt in to stop the vibes.
All good now.
Better get them all dirty and scratched now.

Sump guards are good at catching dropped nuts,
luckily have a magnet on a stick

[got_bar_work]

Looks good
I wouldnt worry what it looks like its going to be bent scraped and dinted when itdoes its job
I realy need to do mine
Im thinking of ways the do it so i have nice flat surface all the way so i can cover it in that plastic so i can slide over rocks that im to low to drive

[christover1]

As a bit of a safety warning.
When cutting anything with zinc in it, like galvanising,
many people are allergic and can get a serious rash from it.
Especially those who set fire to there shirts.
Its very darn annoying, itchy and my chest is not a babe magnet anymore
Wear something to protect yoursellf from flying gal sparks.
I have probably got to chuck the clothes, as not sure I can wash out all the metal bits.

And no, no pix, as some is too close to nether regions

[larry]

KEENSY85 wrote:

Did u bend it ur self or pay someone if so how much roughly did it cost?

took it to a metal fab place, quoted me $5 a bend and ended up charging 20$ for the lot. took 5 mins

[tombutt]

hey mate dunno if the 1.6 is like my 2l but there are two holes in the cross member that the front diff bolts to and the rear of the front a arms if there is can i suggest drilling holes in those for drainage as that what they seem to be there for they are around 25-30mm big. I only suggest this after on the weekend i went to unbolt my bash plates to find the rail full of crap and the bolts rusting and stripping the thread making them a pain to get out.

ill try to get some pics of my bash plate sometime they are just 5mm thick and cover back just past the transfer case

[christover1]

tombutt wrote:

hey mate dunno if the 1.6 is like my 2l but there are two holes in the cross member that the front diff bolts to and the rear of the front a arms if there is can i suggest drilling holes in those for drainage as that what they seem to be there for they are around 25-30mm big. I only suggest this after on the weekend i went to unbolt my bash plates to find the rail full of crap and the bolts rusting and stripping the thread making them a pain to get out.

ill try to get some pics of my bash plate sometime they are just 5mm thick and cover back just past the transfer case

Mine was chocked full of mud before fitting the bash plate.
Took half an hour to get it all out.
I was hoping bash plate would stop that,
but it must come in from the sides.
I may do the holes next time it comes off.
Have greased the bolts,
though that copper non stick paste would be better.