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Post Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 7:24 am 
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As for the fuel system, I won't be stuffing around with lift pumps and surge tanks, because I found one of these :D

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Look - no dings!
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Post Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 11:39 am 
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So, with regards to the thermostat housing, does anyone know if this one will fit? It's from a G16B, but a little older (91-98)

http://www.suzistore.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=445

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 11:40 pm 
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Gimme a sec and i will check that hole.

Guard the tank! You will dint it, then oh damn!

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 2:07 am 
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Don't worry, I found a thermostat housing of a carby G13 Swift engine. It fits perfectly :D
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And I already have a guard for the tank too.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:07 am 
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that thermistat looks identical to how mine looks! :)

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:12 am 
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Here's my "lengthened" Baleno fuel pump.
The return line is still a little short. I can't see it being a problem though, as the fuel will be returned to the swirl pot anyway.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:28 am 
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Are you running the water hose under the inlet? Im going to use the same thermostat housing but was planning on running over the exhaust?

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:33 am 
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Yes mate, under the inlet manifold. You could spin the housing around and run it over the exhaust if you wanted to. I think it will look nicer this way.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 11:09 am 
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ok thanks,
Let us no what hoses etc you use

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 11:19 am 
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CairnsZook wrote:
Don't worry, I found a thermostat housing of a carby G13 Swift engine. It fits perfectly :D
Image


But will it clear the firewall?

Image

This is a baleno motor, stock P/S engine mount, 2" BL. The thermostat is hard on the firewall. There's no room for a housing.

We decided to turn the factory thermostat housing around- we couldn't see it working any other way.

Image

Bear in mind, to get to those bolts once in the car, I have a 3/8" ratchet with a a 90 degree offset head. Without it, those bolts that attach the bend to the head CANNOT be undone.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 11:27 am 
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Some one liked the degreaser Mr Gwagensteve?? :roll:

Seen that acidic shit eat housing's when left to pool.. 8O

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:33 pm 
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Hmmmmmm :?

Thanks for the heads up Steve. I'll let you know what I come up with...

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 2:25 pm 
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I might do that when i swap my motor into my lwb. Will look neater than over the zorst.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 1:20 am 
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steknig wrote:
Some one liked the degreaser Mr Gwagensteve?? :roll:

Seen that acidic shit eat housing's when left to pool.. 8O


battery acid I think. It came from a 1/2 cut that had had a front hit.

Steve

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 2:21 am 
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Looking good CairnsZook, let me know if you need a hand with wiring, should be the same as the jimny conversion and I have done that 3 times now 8O

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:21 am 
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From looking at that pic id say it would clear --just. ive been told that this thermo housing works.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:45 pm 
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Brenno wrote:
Looking good CairnsZook, let me know if you need a hand with wiring, should be the same as the jimny conversion and I have done that 3 times now 8O


Thanks Brenno, I might just take you up on that.

I got the wrecker to send me the rest of the wiring, but like most wreckers, he didn't send me all of it :? Luckily I found a fuse/relay box here in town, but I still don't have the "High Amp" fuse box... apparently it has 3 fuses in it, 30A, 60A and 80A.

Here's my fuse/relay box:
Image
The relay (block) on the far left is FI Main.
Next to it is the relay for Fuel pump.
Relay on the bottom row is for the Thermo fan.
Blue 15A is FI fuse.
Yellow 20A is Dome fuse.

Do I need a different box for the "High Amp" fuses? Or can I just wire them into this one?

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 10:55 pm 
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You can if you want?

Most of my wiring i used the existing sierra fuse block and everything else under the dash. I only have 1 large fuse in the engine bay, and i can't remember whats its for atm.. :lol:

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 12:32 am 
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my gti housing clears and it is basicly identical..

steve u mounted the 1.3 in didnt you? it might sit further back.

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 6:00 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
my gti housing clears and it is basicly identical..

steve u mounted the 1.3 in didnt you? it might sit further back.


can you post up some pics of how much clearance you have

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 4:07 am 
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Thanks for the info Steve am currently contemplating what to do with the thermostat housing on mine I will probably end up doing something similar.

Given that the pipe goes down do you have any problems with air bubbles? I thought that if you went down you create a local high spot that traps air and thus the cooling system becomes difficult to bleed?

Sorry to hijack your thread CairnsZook :oops:

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 4:24 am 
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Oh and CairnsZook I think this may be the fusebox you are talking about.

This is what is on my loom. The only fuse still connected is the 80amp fuse which is the positive supply from the battery for everything except the starter motor.


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Post Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 4:42 am 
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Yep, that'd be the one. I suppose I'll just get a generic box and wire it in, or use what's already in the Zook.

Any idea what size wire is running to the 80amp fuse?

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 10:08 am 
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Not too sure as it is all covered by insulation etc. At a guess it is 10-15mm thick.

Someone else should know what kind of thickness is used.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 1:12 pm 
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Image

in reguards to thermistat..

that clears the firewall buy atleast 2 inches..
i will grab some of it in the car next time i remember.. its hard to see as its under dizzy.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 10:43 pm 
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jonno, They are talking about Bal motors on here. Not Twincam G13b's!!

They look like a completely different housing/outlet/etc

Your not helping.

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:56 am 
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Got some work done today :D

I spent the morning taking off the bonnet, windscreen and ripping out the zorst.
Then the old donk came out.
The gearbox, flywheel and clutch are off.
And the dash is in pieces.

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Image

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:50 am 
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Good work mate! Cant wait to see how it goes!

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:41 am 
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The coily tank is going in today.

Do I need to run high pressure lines for supply and return? Or can I run normal lines for return?

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:43 am 
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Run hp for all. With a hp filter.

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