[Zook_Fan]

i edited my previous post after i read what you said. I'm not really sure, i am pretty sure a relay will lower the voltage drop from the battery to the lights which will give you better light. No its not essential but i believe it will be beneficial, and i'm sure someone can explain it much better than I.

[sickzuk1]

Ok.. Well I will wait till the morning then

[royce]

you still need a relay, a relay copes with switching the load better than a switch and keeps all the high current wiring under the bonnet

[appsie]

i remember when this buggered me up bad when i got my zuk

in normal situation you would have 30 to + on battery
87(s) out to your lights or accessories
85 earth
86 trigger off hi beam or accessorie or whatever you want to activate from
85 and 86 will both be earth until you switch on hi beam when 86 would then become powered and switching to power lights at 87

but in a zook the lights wire will be powered at all times until it become activated(switch to hibeam) and then it becomes earth so you have 2 earths and the relay wont switch.To beat this 85 gets looped around and doubled up on 30 of the relay giving it power.
Thats how my spotties are done on mine and then my thermo fan and rocklights are done under the other method

[sierra_1988]

Having searched and read all the topics on spotlight connections - could someone please answer this question to ensure I don't stuff it up? I have spots with wiring harness. It says "to connect to High Beam, locate the High Beam Cable for headlights". Is this the wire that comes from the right side of headlights looking from the back as stated in (excellent) posts on this forum? I am just confused as to all the talk of the "different" wiring of Suzuki's. BTW, it's for a '88 Sierra - again not sure whether all Suzuki's are the same in this regard. Cheers for any help.

[royce]

yes, but the wire from the relay that goes to earth (not the earth for the lights) needs to go to the left pin as well

[sierra_1988]

Royce, thanks for that! You (and the "know-how guys on the forume are stars! Cheers!

[sierra_1988]

And a follow up question. Do I need to connect the corresponding wires (as in previous post) to both headlights, or can I just join to the drivers side left and right pins, as I assume from there they are connected to the other headlight in any case.

[Che]

I'll post this in here as an FYI. This is a diagram for upgrading headlight wiring, powered directly from the battery. You can use either left or right hand side headlight socket to run from. It shouldn't matter.

I did it to mine a few days ago now, and lighting is now 1000x better




Make the red wires 6mm, the rest can be 4mm.

[Che]

If anyone has mounted their spotties off a roofrack, how are you running the wiring?

[Moag]

I'm giving the fully relayed headlights and spotlight (LED light bar) wiring a go. But have some noob questions, so it's all clear in my head for stock Jimny!!

1: is this correct?

LOW BEAM RELAY switch
White(red stripe) wire to 85, Red (white stripe) wire to 86

HIGH BEAM RELAY switch
White (red stripe) wire to 85, RED wire to 86

or

2: this way?

LOW BEAM RELAY switch
RED wire to 85,
Red (white stripe) wire to 86

HIGH BEAM RELAY switch
RED wire to 85,
White (red stripe) wire to 86

3: What type of Relay protection recommended (for Normally Open)?
a: No protection
b: Fuse protection
c: Resistor protection
d: Diode protection
e: doesn't matter

Thanks in advance

[royce]

dont bother with wire colours, go with position into teh plug

unplug both headlights, from one headlight, the vertical pin that has power on it, goes to 86 on both releays

the other vertical pin goes to 85 on high beam, the horizontal to 85 on low beam

[Moag]

Cheers Royce
Is this with High beam on or with every thing off?

[royce]

everything off, both headlights unplugged

[Moag]

So is this the right way Royce?
Thanks again.

[royce]

I dont get your table cause ground is the only terminal should show power

I would have a seperate fuse into each pin 30, so if something happens on a dark road and you blow the fuse you can flick to the other beam to avoid running into something

You could also tap pin 86 from pin 30 on each relay so you no longer have to worry about teh stock power supply at all, I have not tried this before but will on the looms I make

[Moag]

No worries Royce.
I've tested the results in the table a couple of times now with a dodgy cheap multimeter and a test light (black dot and star things).
So either my lights are going to stay on for a couple of hours when off.
Or somethings up with the stock wiring?
Not easy hay.

[Moag]

Fault finding time
Same results on left H4 plug. So i guess it must be somewhere further back.
Another solution maybe to have one more relay just after the fuse from battery, triggered by ...............no that won't work!! as i will still have lights on with park and ignition on.

[royce]

You have both headlights unplugged at teh same time yeah?

dont worry about when it has power, it always will do, if you look at the pass and drive wires, one will show circuit to earth on low and the other on high and open circuit otherwise, both should also show open circuit when the headlights are off

[Scrawny]

royce wrote:

You could also tap pin 86 from pin 30 on each relay so you no longer have to worry about teh stock power supply at all, I have not tried this before but will on the looms I make

This is what I do, much neater IMO

[Moag]

Yep both unplugged or cut and isolated in my case.
I'm the third owner of this one and their was lots evidence of bodged spotlight fitting.

Fitted Narva H4 plugs on lights to replace stock, stock H4 plugs cut off and insulated blade terminals fitted to connect switch wires to relays.

note only relay switch circuit active (power circuit unplugged at lights) and when done as in above diagram 15amp headlight fuse is ok when on park or ignition on,
but then blows as soon as light is turned on l with low or high.

Run out of 15amp fuses but have a couple 20amps and a fire extinguisher.

[Moag]

Returned the above to stockish again. The headlight fuse doesn't go pop now.

Ripped the neat relayed headlight/spotlight loom out for rethink and maybe some extra mods.

Any bright ideas welcome.

[royce]

Scrawn wrote:

royce wrote:

You could also tap pin 86 from pin 30 on each relay so you no longer have to worry about teh stock power supply at all, I have not tried this before but will on the looms I make

This is what I do, much neater IMO

have you ever come across anything that switches earth for high and low but positive to turn the lights on? I am sure some Toyotas did it

[Moag]

Just had a thought
could you get rid of two of the normally switched relays for the low and high and replace them with one change over relay?
Hooking the 87 to Low and 87a to high.
85 and 86 to pass and ground.

[JrZook]

Moag wrote:

Just had a thought
could you get rid of two of the normally switched relays for the low and high and replace them with one change over relay?
Hooking the 87 to Low and 87a to high.
85 and 86 to pass and ground.

Then wont you get either low or high on and no off at all...

[Moag]

Don't know
I will try to get one tomorrow and have a play.

[JrZook]

Moag wrote:

Returned the above to stockish again. The headlight fuse doesn't go pop now.

Ripped the neat relayed headlight/spotlight loom out for rethink and maybe some extra mods.

Any bright ideas welcome.

So the lights work how they are supposed to in the stock configuration? IF so then your table doesn't make sense and maybe you are measuring it wrong somehow .

Another thing that you may just wanna clear up so it doesnt cause any confusion is your terminal name 'ground' change this to 'common' as it relates to the common connection within the headlight bulb.

With the measurements in the table common will always be ~12V so it should measure something like this if your headlights do actually work properly in your stock configuration.

Measured from the plug, both plugs undone:

Common - Low - high
OFF: 12V - 12V - 12V

Low: 12V - 0V - 12V

High: 12V - 12V -0V

Pass/dip:12V -0V -0V

Hope it helps

[Moag]

JrZook wrote:

Moag wrote:

Returned the above to stockish again. The headlight fuse doesn't go pop now.

Ripped the neat relayed headlight/spotlight loom out for rethink and maybe some extra mods.

Any bright ideas welcome.

So the lights work how they are supposed to in the stock configuration? IF so then your table doesn't make sense and maybe you are measuring it wrong somehow .

Another thing that you may just wanna clear up so it doesnt cause any confusion is your terminal name 'ground' change this to 'common' as it relates to the common connection within the headlight bulb.

With the measurements in the table common will always be ~12V so it should measure something like this if your headlights do actually work properly in your stock configuration.

Measured from the plug, both plugs undone:

Common - Low - high
OFF: 12V - 12V - 12V

Low: 12V - 0V - 12V

High: 12V - 12V -0V

Pass/dip:12V -0V -0V

Hope it helps

Cheers, i fully agree, the table result wasn't what i expected but what you show is.

I called it ground instead of common as thats what on the stock plug, the narva plug calls it common, but easily changed on drawing. I tend to draw what i see hay.

Have you tested the above?

thanks heaps for your help hay.

[whincup]

i started doing this yesterday, got halfway through and realised i didnt have enough of those little blade things that join the wire to the relay (whatever the name is) , but im getting photos of everything, i can do a bit of a step-by-step guide if anyones interested...

[royce]

if your headlights are unplugged you will never see voltage on anything but the common terminal.

You will if you have the lights plugged in or there is still a relay in the circuit somewhere, this is why I also hate multimeters for working out live wires in cars, you look like you have power there but you are seeing it through a bulb or relay somewhere