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Post Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 12:48 pm 
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The Bosch alternator has the same case size (roughly) but the mounting lugs are spaced WAY further apart. Whilst anything's possible, it would be much harder to fit than the Mitsubishi version as you'd need new brackets both top and bottom. In any case, it has a lower rating.

(I assume you are referring to the Bosch alternator in the EA-ED Falcons?)

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 12:57 pm 
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Yeah found a very good near new one Bosch one for 100

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Post Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 7:06 pm 
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ok so i have read the whole post here and i still have a problem i went to suzifour today and bought a 8v vitara waterpump pulley which is perfect, i also bought a "swift crank pulley" which is four bolt, the same as my orginal crank pulley but the bolts do not line up the orginal one the bolts are all same distance apart but the "swift crank pulley" the spacings are uneven.
Thanks

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Post Posted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:15 pm 
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Will a falcon alternator fitvon a gti engine with ease

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:36 pm 
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just wondering i know ppl have used the EA falcon pulley on the EL alternator but is the pulley on a EB or ED falcon alternator different to a EA?

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 12:11 pm 
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just wondering if anyone knows if a XF pulley is the same as the EA? I know they a both V belt pulleys but not sure?

I am having a hard time finding a EA pulley for the conversion?

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 8:42 pm 
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Completed this today myself, was surprised how easy it was for a upgrade. Car is a swab g16b vit. Not sure if the mits alternator I got is 100a or 110 either way it is working a treat. Idling with no accessories at 14v, stereo and headlights going at 13.5v. Not sure what everyone is talking about changing pulleys mine was a direct fit to change it I didn't take out the radiator either just disconnected the top hose. Belt that I ended up using is a 4pk0830 fits like a dream.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:04 pm 
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people changing the pulleys have 1.3's single rib pulleys. As you already have a Vit you shouldn't need to do that :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 2:40 pm 
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For all the people having trouble finding pulleys
I just did this on my car it's a widetrack (g13ba) and I used a
Vitara crank pulley ( 5 hole, I just drilled it out.)
Baleno water pump pulley
And Mitsubishi 110 amp alternator
4pk845 belt
But all the offsets lined up.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:54 pm 
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I got my crank pulley off a swift and used a vit water pump pulley

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 4:03 pm 
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can anyone tell me why you supposedly cannot use the vit g16b cast alt bracket?
I drilled and refitted my one with a mitsubishi alt and all seem to line up fine.
where was it wrong for you?

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:58 pm 
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ajsr wrote:
can anyone tell me why you supposedly cannot use the vit g16b cast alt bracket?
I drilled and refitted my one with a mitsubishi alt and all seem to line up fine.
where was it wrong for you?

I've just got my new alternator half installed. It appears to line up ok with the cast standard g16b bracket. What is the problem with using it?

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:45 am 
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Is the EB alternator the same as these ones?

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 4:33 pm 
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when you see listings for these, they always say EA/EF/EL, and the EB is listed with ED. possibly fit, but as a guess i'd say no. at least, not as easily as these

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 12:55 pm 
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whincup wrote:
when you see listings for these, they always say EA/EF/EL, and the EB is listed with ED. possibly fit, but as a guess i'd say no. at least, not as easily as these

From memory an EB falcon alternator has a different dimension between mounting the mounting feet. Also an EB falcon alternator has less output.

Go look at an alternator catalogue and you can see the differences for yourself. As far as I could find when researching my alternator conversion, the EL falcon alternator has the largest output of the few with 66mm between mounting feet. If you did re-make some mounting brackets however you could literally fit any alternator - A new AU falcon/territory alternator (120A) was only $229 as opposed to the new EL one I bought which was $284 and has similar overall dimensions to the EL one.

See this thread for mounting dimensions - oh yes I used a (larger) Bosch branded EL one as well so needed to space the alternator away from the block anyway so the regulator would clear the engine mount!

http://nbs4x4club.com/forum/index.php?topic=15727.0

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 4:58 am 
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So anyone doing this with the G16b standard cast bracket...........it can be done.

Myself, AJSR and Gwagon have now done it. Not sure if there are variations of this bracket but it was smooth sailing for me.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:32 am 
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I have one on my coilpack Baleno motor and stock bracket. Had to grind down the top adjust arm though for full tension. Can't remember what else but mustn't of been much else.

Just hooked it up yesterday, 14.5v @ idle from a 100a EL alt. 80a Fuse. Bit high? could be due to slighlty different size pulleys?

It dropped my revs too so i had to adjust the idle throttle body screw

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 2:37 pm 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
I have one on my coilpack Baleno motor and stock bracket. Had to grind down the top adjust arm though for full tension. Can't remember what else but mustn't of been much else.

Just hooked it up yesterday, 14.5v @ idle from a 100a EL alt. 80a Fuse. Bit high? could be due to slighlty different size pulleys?

It dropped my revs too so i had to adjust the idle throttle body screw

I also had to grind the top mounting bracket a small amount to adjust it with the larger EL alt housing.

14.5V is ok - maybe a bit on the high side though - did you run the IG wire through a relay? The regulator is supposed to be 14.4V and mine drops to 14.2V under load. The voltage is determined by the IG terminal voltage - if there is any voltage drop in this wire you will see proportionally higher voltages produced by the regulator. Pulley speed won't see the output voltage increase...

When you increased the size of the fusible link, did you upgrade the wiring as well? I noticed on my Coily that the alternator output wire was joined to the wire that goes to the fuse box and it was unfused all the way back to the fusebox under the dash - alright if the maximum output of the alternator is less than the rating of the cable (looks less than 10mm^2) but not okay if the alternator capacity goes from 50A to 108A. In the case of a short - the main fusible link will blow but the upgraded alternator can still supply 100A+ to a short along this wire so long as the engine is running...

The Coily has a set of main fuses similar to a Vitara so I had to run that wire through a 'spare' fuse - I used 40A as the coily has 2 feeds from the fusible links to the underdash fuse panel - the one marked 'headlights' was connected to a 40A fusible link. I also upgraded the wiring from the alternator to the fusible links to 25mm^2 and also the battery lead to 25mm^2 also. It would be wise to upgrade the wire from the firewall to battery -ve terminal as well.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:27 pm 
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Sparky at work deals with cars a bit. He said 14.5v seems ok for the type of alt.

This is 14.5V is measured on the battery.

Im not that great with wiring, Try to keep it simple. But i used the original sierra sense wires to alt plug. Guessing no relay?
I used the bigger wires from the Baleno and sierra to an original style 80a bolt in fuse. Baleno's are originally 80a fuse so my wires are safe there. Sierra's and Baleno's run same size bigger wire for the alt, slightly smaller for the starter. My 80a fuse is totally separate to any other fuse terminals.

So my alt main power goes ALT to SEPERATE FUSE to STARTER to BATTERY Under pass seat. Starter to battery wire is 25mm^2, same as earth to body and chassis
So basically my starter is the main + terminal up front which also supplies ign/everything else power

All she is running is ecu atm. No lights, nothing else connected yet.

I should get the alt to starter 25mm^2 ... Also going to run a red key/kill switch doova

Sorry if its confusing. I have to think about wiring weeks before i start the job :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 3:01 pm 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
So my alt main power goes ALT to SEPERATE FUSE to STARTER to BATTERY Under pass seat. Starter to battery wire is 25mm^2, same as earth to body and chassis
So basically my starter is the main + terminal up front which also supplies ign/everything else power

That's good - that means your new wiring is protected and adequately sized and the existing fuses protect the factory wiring.

I bet there are a few 'upgrades' out there where people have just connected the output back into the factory loom!

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:44 am 
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[quote="BlueSuzy"]Sparky at work deals with cars a bit. He said 14.5v seems ok for the type of alt.


So my alt main power goes ALT to SEPERATE FUSE to STARTER to BATTERY Under pass seat....

Other than a couple of comments I'm new to the forum, but I have a lot of practical experience in setting up low voltage systems - privately and paid. Over coming weeks I'm helping my son fiddle up a shorty f10a - better start taking pictures so I can contribute a bit instead of lurking.... :windowface:

O.k., from a road crash rescue perspective you must never mount a battery in a passenger compartment - car, boat, camper whatever. It's actually illegal to fit any battery in a passenger space unless an approved container vented only to the outside is used. No a Kmart plastic battery box is not approved. If you do fit batteries and cables in non standad places there should be an obvious master switch so they can get isolated if things go pear shaped. I know that is not always practical, but modified vehicals are an absolute nightmare to rescue crews because they are full of traps and sometimes downright weird stuff.

You really don't want to see (or feel) the results of liquid or gel based acid solution all over the occupants if things go wrong, and it's pretty spectacular when inadvertently cutting cables connected to a fully charged battery - actually a little bit too over-exciting when fuel gets in the equation....

A bit of lateral thinking is needed to safely fit second batteries and when upgrading the power systems, which no one denies is needed from stock on the older zooks. If your second battery is correctly fitted using a VSR you can connect all extra lighting, stereos, fans etc. to that and leave the starting battery unloaded when the engine and ignition is off. If you are using close to the max output of any alternator it will struggle and die an early death - along with a battery or three. If you are involved in an accident the rescue crew will get access under the bonnet early on - generally the battery leads are cut asap, if second leads are seen they are too - if we don't see them we are all at risk.

Yes I too believe I will never have a crash - but no one ever does. That's why I do a lot of training to deal with the results, and I truely hope never to meet any of you in a professional capacity!!

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:51 am 
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^^^ pretty sure BlueSuzy is running a sealed battery such as the optima range of batteries so cabin mounting shouldn't be a problem in terms of gas & acid leaks. http://www.optima-batteries.com.au/opti ... eries.html

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:01 am 
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OK just read the whole thread and still not clear what I need for a G16A Vitara.

From what I can figure out I have it easier due to having a Vitara so I would need:
Mitsubishi 110A Ford EL alternator
4pk0830 belt
Disconnect the top radiator hose and swap over
Upgrade the cabling to cope with the new load

Is that it?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:12 am 
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Yes, that should be it. You will also need the bottom bolt from the falcon - It's loooong, and some means of joining the falcon IG+ and L connector to the vitara loom.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:21 am 
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Thanks! Will get some pricing on a new alternator and the other bits needed.

Just found this... anyone used this kit before, looks pretty good to me...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEO-TRACKER-SID ... 9e&vxp=mtr

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:43 pm 
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I'm not sure how that's better than a locally sourced alternator you can buy from any parts joint (or wrecker) in Australia.

Kill it in a bog hole and where do you get a replacement? Out of the US? It's not worth the hassle for 105A. If it had AC for welding or something it would be great, but it doesn't look like a better option than an EL alternator that doesn't need a new bracket and is available everywhere.


Steve.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 6:47 am 
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Just found out that EF Falcon alt (made by Mitsushitty) is also used in V6 Mazda 929's.
Another possible source. :D

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 6:54 am 
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There seem to be quite a lot of them languishing in wreckers now too.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:24 pm 
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Cheers for the tech here guys , and a big thanks to Gwagensteve for the info in the hedgepig build ,
el 110amp alternator is in the Stocker for Rocks Vitara , very tight fit as the Orbital Valve it there as well ,
I will get some pics (once I have finished wiring it up ) and add to my build/rebuild/maintenance thread

cheers Macca

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:34 pm 
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Car goes slower now :D
Probably get more horse power out of the battery than the engine now :(

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