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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 12957 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 12:48 pm |
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The Bosch alternator has the same case size (roughly) but the mounting lugs are spaced WAY further apart. Whilst anything's possible, it would be much harder to fit than the Mitsubishi version as you'd need new brackets both top and bottom. In any case, it has a lower rating.
(I assume you are referring to the Bosch alternator in the EA-ED Falcons?)
Steve.
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gvzookdriver

az supporter
Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1833 Location: Brisbane
Vehicle: Sold zuk got a Bt50
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 Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 12:57 pm |
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Yeah found a very good near new one Bosch one for 100
_________________ bt50 now but still love the zooks
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physcobj
Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2012 8:29 pm Posts: 47
Vehicle: bj70 landcruiser
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 Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 7:06 pm |
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ok so i have read the whole post here and i still have a problem i went to suzifour today and bought a 8v vitara waterpump pulley which is perfect, i also bought a "swift crank pulley" which is four bolt, the same as my orginal crank pulley but the bolts do not line up the orginal one the bolts are all same distance apart but the "swift crank pulley" the spacings are uneven. Thanks
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Bennyzarb
Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 12:22 pm Posts: 501 Location: north richmond
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 Posted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:15 pm |
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Will a falcon alternator fitvon a gti engine with ease
_________________ 92sierra ht 33s 5in lift 2in zorst gti powered
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trity
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:49 pm Posts: 250 Location: Perth, WA
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 Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:36 pm |
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just wondering i know ppl have used the EA falcon pulley on the EL alternator but is the pulley on a EB or ED falcon alternator different to a EA?
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trity
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:49 pm Posts: 250 Location: Perth, WA
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 Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 12:11 pm |
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just wondering if anyone knows if a XF pulley is the same as the EA? I know they a both V belt pulleys but not sure?
I am having a hard time finding a EA pulley for the conversion?
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luhrsy
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:52 pm Posts: 37
Vehicle: swb vitara
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 Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 8:42 pm |
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Completed this today myself, was surprised how easy it was for a upgrade. Car is a swab g16b vit. Not sure if the mits alternator I got is 100a or 110 either way it is working a treat. Idling with no accessories at 14v, stereo and headlights going at 13.5v. Not sure what everyone is talking about changing pulleys mine was a direct fit to change it I didn't take out the radiator either just disconnected the top hose. Belt that I ended up using is a 4pk0830 fits like a dream.
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tmb99

az supporter
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 330 Location: Brisvages
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 Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:04 pm |
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people changing the pulleys have 1.3's single rib pulleys. As you already have a Vit you shouldn't need to do that 
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suzi-fan-22
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:31 am Posts: 499 Location: Ipswich
Vehicle: Sierra Ute '87 Sj70
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 Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 2:40 pm |
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For all the people having trouble finding pulleys I just did this on my car it's a widetrack (g13ba) and I used a Vitara crank pulley ( 5 hole, I just drilled it out.) Baleno water pump pulley And Mitsubishi 110 amp alternator 4pk845 belt But all the offsets lined up.
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94BAZOOKA
Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:40 am Posts: 537 Location: central coast NSW
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 Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:54 pm |
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I got my crank pulley off a swift and used a vit water pump pulley
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ajsr

az supporter
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 3712 Location: melb
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 Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 4:03 pm |
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can anyone tell me why you supposedly cannot use the vit g16b cast alt bracket? I drilled and refitted my one with a mitsubishi alt and all seem to line up fine. where was it wrong for you?
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canberramav
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 643 Location: Canberra
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 Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:58 pm |
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ajsr wrote: can anyone tell me why you supposedly cannot use the vit g16b cast alt bracket? I drilled and refitted my one with a mitsubishi alt and all seem to line up fine. where was it wrong for you? I've just got my new alternator half installed. It appears to line up ok with the cast standard g16b bracket. What is the problem with using it?
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Scales

az supporter
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 9:28 am Posts: 2233 Location: Townsville
Vehicle: 03 Jim M13A no-vvt, Vinyl Spec
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 Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:45 am |
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Is the EB alternator the same as these ones?
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whincup

az supporter
Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 1588 Location: Gracemere, QLD
Vehicle: '94 suzuki maruti
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 Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 4:33 pm |
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when you see listings for these, they always say EA/EF/EL, and the EB is listed with ED. possibly fit, but as a guess i'd say no. at least, not as easily as these
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Reubs
Joined: Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1522 Location: Brisbane
Vehicle: SJ80, SE416
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 Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 12:55 pm |
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whincup wrote: when you see listings for these, they always say EA/EF/EL, and the EB is listed with ED. possibly fit, but as a guess i'd say no. at least, not as easily as these From memory an EB falcon alternator has a different dimension between mounting the mounting feet. Also an EB falcon alternator has less output. Go look at an alternator catalogue and you can see the differences for yourself. As far as I could find when researching my alternator conversion, the EL falcon alternator has the largest output of the few with 66mm between mounting feet. If you did re-make some mounting brackets however you could literally fit any alternator - A new AU falcon/territory alternator (120A) was only $229 as opposed to the new EL one I bought which was $284 and has similar overall dimensions to the EL one. See this thread for mounting dimensions - oh yes I used a (larger) Bosch branded EL one as well so needed to space the alternator away from the block anyway so the regulator would clear the engine mount! http://nbs4x4club.com/forum/index.php?topic=15727.0
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canberramav
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 643 Location: Canberra
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 Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 4:58 am |
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So anyone doing this with the G16b standard cast bracket...........it can be done.
Myself, AJSR and Gwagon have now done it. Not sure if there are variations of this bracket but it was smooth sailing for me.
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BlueSuzy

az supporter
Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 9706 Location: NSW
Vehicle: SJ51 LWB, SJ70 SWB
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 Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:32 am |
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I have one on my coilpack Baleno motor and stock bracket. Had to grind down the top adjust arm though for full tension. Can't remember what else but mustn't of been much else.
Just hooked it up yesterday, 14.5v @ idle from a 100a EL alt. 80a Fuse. Bit high? could be due to slighlty different size pulleys?
It dropped my revs too so i had to adjust the idle throttle body screw
_________________ BlueSuzy wrote: I'm over the G16b's.
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Reubs
Joined: Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1522 Location: Brisbane
Vehicle: SJ80, SE416
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 Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 2:37 pm |
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BlueSuzy wrote: I have one on my coilpack Baleno motor and stock bracket. Had to grind down the top adjust arm though for full tension. Can't remember what else but mustn't of been much else.
Just hooked it up yesterday, 14.5v @ idle from a 100a EL alt. 80a Fuse. Bit high? could be due to slighlty different size pulleys?
It dropped my revs too so i had to adjust the idle throttle body screw I also had to grind the top mounting bracket a small amount to adjust it with the larger EL alt housing. 14.5V is ok - maybe a bit on the high side though - did you run the IG wire through a relay? The regulator is supposed to be 14.4V and mine drops to 14.2V under load. The voltage is determined by the IG terminal voltage - if there is any voltage drop in this wire you will see proportionally higher voltages produced by the regulator. Pulley speed won't see the output voltage increase... When you increased the size of the fusible link, did you upgrade the wiring as well? I noticed on my Coily that the alternator output wire was joined to the wire that goes to the fuse box and it was unfused all the way back to the fusebox under the dash - alright if the maximum output of the alternator is less than the rating of the cable (looks less than 10mm^2) but not okay if the alternator capacity goes from 50A to 108A. In the case of a short - the main fusible link will blow but the upgraded alternator can still supply 100A+ to a short along this wire so long as the engine is running... The Coily has a set of main fuses similar to a Vitara so I had to run that wire through a 'spare' fuse - I used 40A as the coily has 2 feeds from the fusible links to the underdash fuse panel - the one marked 'headlights' was connected to a 40A fusible link. I also upgraded the wiring from the alternator to the fusible links to 25mm^2 and also the battery lead to 25mm^2 also. It would be wise to upgrade the wire from the firewall to battery -ve terminal as well.
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BlueSuzy

az supporter
Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 9706 Location: NSW
Vehicle: SJ51 LWB, SJ70 SWB
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 Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:27 pm |
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Sparky at work deals with cars a bit. He said 14.5v seems ok for the type of alt. This is 14.5V is measured on the battery. Im not that great with wiring, Try to keep it simple. But i used the original sierra sense wires to alt plug. Guessing no relay? I used the bigger wires from the Baleno and sierra to an original style 80a bolt in fuse. Baleno's are originally 80a fuse so my wires are safe there. Sierra's and Baleno's run same size bigger wire for the alt, slightly smaller for the starter. My 80a fuse is totally separate to any other fuse terminals. So my alt main power goes ALT to SEPERATE FUSE to STARTER to BATTERY Under pass seat. Starter to battery wire is 25mm^2, same as earth to body and chassis So basically my starter is the main + terminal up front which also supplies ign/everything else power All she is running is ecu atm. No lights, nothing else connected yet. I should get the alt to starter 25mm^2 ... Also going to run a red key/kill switch doova Sorry if its confusing. I have to think about wiring weeks before i start the job 
_________________ BlueSuzy wrote: I'm over the G16b's.
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Reubs
Joined: Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1522 Location: Brisbane
Vehicle: SJ80, SE416
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 Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 3:01 pm |
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BlueSuzy wrote: So my alt main power goes ALT to SEPERATE FUSE to STARTER to BATTERY Under pass seat. Starter to battery wire is 25mm^2, same as earth to body and chassis So basically my starter is the main + terminal up front which also supplies ign/everything else power
That's good - that means your new wiring is protected and adequately sized and the existing fuses protect the factory wiring. I bet there are a few 'upgrades' out there where people have just connected the output back into the factory loom!
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Davros-1
Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:11 pm Posts: 39
Vehicle: F10a tin top ferociously stock
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 Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:44 am |
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[quote="BlueSuzy"]Sparky at work deals with cars a bit. He said 14.5v seems ok for the type of alt. So my alt main power goes ALT to SEPERATE FUSE to STARTER to BATTERY Under pass seat.... Other than a couple of comments I'm new to the forum, but I have a lot of practical experience in setting up low voltage systems - privately and paid. Over coming weeks I'm helping my son fiddle up a shorty f10a - better start taking pictures so I can contribute a bit instead of lurking.... O.k., from a road crash rescue perspective you must never mount a battery in a passenger compartment - car, boat, camper whatever. It's actually illegal to fit any battery in a passenger space unless an approved container vented only to the outside is used. No a Kmart plastic battery box is not approved. If you do fit batteries and cables in non standad places there should be an obvious master switch so they can get isolated if things go pear shaped. I know that is not always practical, but modified vehicals are an absolute nightmare to rescue crews because they are full of traps and sometimes downright weird stuff. You really don't want to see (or feel) the results of liquid or gel based acid solution all over the occupants if things go wrong, and it's pretty spectacular when inadvertently cutting cables connected to a fully charged battery - actually a little bit too over-exciting when fuel gets in the equation.... A bit of lateral thinking is needed to safely fit second batteries and when upgrading the power systems, which no one denies is needed from stock on the older zooks. If your second battery is correctly fitted using a VSR you can connect all extra lighting, stereos, fans etc. to that and leave the starting battery unloaded when the engine and ignition is off. If you are using close to the max output of any alternator it will struggle and die an early death - along with a battery or three. If you are involved in an accident the rescue crew will get access under the bonnet early on - generally the battery leads are cut asap, if second leads are seen they are too - if we don't see them we are all at risk. Yes I too believe I will never have a crash - but no one ever does. That's why I do a lot of training to deal with the results, and I truely hope never to meet any of you in a professional capacity!!
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atari4x4

az supporter
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:30 pm Posts: 34843 Location: East Radelayed
Vehicle: SV420+SV620 Vitara's
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 Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:51 am |
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^^^ pretty sure BlueSuzy is running a sealed battery such as the optima range of batteries so cabin mounting shouldn't be a problem in terms of gas & acid leaks. http://www.optima-batteries.com.au/opti ... eries.html
_________________ You're just hating because you don't understand
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Poita
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:03 am Posts: 553 Location: Adelaide, SA
Vehicle: 2010 Suzuki Swift Sports
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 Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:01 am |
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OK just read the whole thread and still not clear what I need for a G16A Vitara.
From what I can figure out I have it easier due to having a Vitara so I would need: Mitsubishi 110A Ford EL alternator 4pk0830 belt Disconnect the top radiator hose and swap over Upgrade the cabling to cope with the new load
Is that it?
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 12957 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:12 am |
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Yes, that should be it. You will also need the bottom bolt from the falcon - It's loooong, and some means of joining the falcon IG+ and L connector to the vitara loom.
Steve.
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Poita
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:03 am Posts: 553 Location: Adelaide, SA
Vehicle: 2010 Suzuki Swift Sports
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 Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:21 am |
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 12957 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:43 pm |
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I'm not sure how that's better than a locally sourced alternator you can buy from any parts joint (or wrecker) in Australia.
Kill it in a bog hole and where do you get a replacement? Out of the US? It's not worth the hassle for 105A. If it had AC for welding or something it would be great, but it doesn't look like a better option than an EL alternator that doesn't need a new bracket and is available everywhere.
Steve.
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want33s

az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8136 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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 Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 6:47 am |
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Just found out that EF Falcon alt (made by Mitsushitty) is also used in V6 Mazda 929's. Another possible source. 
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 12957 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 6:54 am |
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There seem to be quite a lot of them languishing in wreckers now too.
Steve.
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madmacca

az supporter
Joined: Fri May 14, 2010 8:46 am Posts: 928 Location: Lesmurdie W.A.
Vehicle: X-90 + Lwb Sierra + DeVitt +++
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 Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:24 pm |
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Cheers for the tech here guys , and a big thanks to Gwagensteve for the info in the hedgepig build , el 110amp alternator is in the Stocker for Rocks Vitara , very tight fit as the Orbital Valve it there as well , I will get some pics (once I have finished wiring it up ) and add to my build/rebuild/maintenance thread
cheers Macca
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jonfromhamilton
Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2011 2:11 pm Posts: 410 Location: Pakenham
Vehicle: SJ51T
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 Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:34 pm |
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Car goes slower now  Probably get more horse power out of the battery than the engine now 
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