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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:22 am 
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Ok, so a mate sold me a Hayman Reece complete 80 Series Landcruiser tow bar for $40
Absolute steal! :D

So anyway, i butchered it a little with the 9"
Then dropped the 70L tank out of the Zook, and cut the rear chassis tube
And subbed in THIS!

Image

Image

Don't mind the battle scars, and the paint.. Haha it's not done yet!

So now i have a rear bar, three solid tow points.. And the ability to tow a trailer again.. WOO
What do you think?

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:27 am 
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Jccck wrote:
And the ability to tow a trailer again.. WOO
What do you think?

Is it legal to weld in a towbar and tow a trailer with it?

Can you get an engineer to give it a rating?

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:29 am 
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I think its a great idea if its been done properly and hsn't just been slapp welded in there.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:35 am 
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Reubs wrote:
Jccck wrote:
And the ability to tow a trailer again.. WOO
What do you think?

Is it legal to weld in a towbar and tow a trailer with it?

Can you get an engineer to give it a rating?


It's never going to tow a trailer on the road, i cut the trailer plug long ago
I just want to be able to tow a trailer around my property with it if i need be
Plus it solves the Zook's problem of no good rear recovery points

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:39 am 
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so you can rate your welds?

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:50 am 
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thats a great idea, really it is, it's small, doesn't poke out, now you have a good tough recovery point, just a question tho, did you plate the chassis were you welded? Did you use a stick or mig? did you clean the paint off? How much welding experence do you have? I think ill copy this idea when i get around to doing mine :D

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:52 am 
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I know I am going to copy this idea

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:35 am 
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post up the length of welds and size are they 6mm fillets?

ill have a look at em and see what max stress they should hold.

if anyone can tear that out recovering a zook ill be impressed.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:53 am 
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That's what I've been wanting to do to mine. Looks pretty neat. I know your isn't for road use but from a engineers point of view I'm pretty sure they don't like weld in towbars. They push for bolts.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:09 am 
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Battle Scars?
...That's an understatement. 8O

Looks like your zook has been used as a chew toy for a dozen rotties.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:37 am 
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Hybrid wrote:
That's what I've been wanting to do to mine. Looks pretty neat. I know your isn't for road use but from a engineers point of view I'm pretty sure they don't like weld in towbars. They push for bolts.


tow bars like jccck's are made from a mild steel, so low carbon content. So it's not like welding cast or biz. If it's plated and welded correctly then it would be fine :D

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:45 am 
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31zook wrote:
Hybrid wrote:
That's what I've been wanting to do to mine. Looks pretty neat. I know your isn't for road use but from a engineers point of view I'm pretty sure they don't like weld in towbars. They push for bolts.


tow bars like jccck's are made from a mild steel, so low carbon content. So it's not like welding cast or biz. If it's plated and welded correctly then it would be fine :D


X2.

I have a similar setup on my ute. And I have done a few others for mates also.

If you follow the correct proceedures for welding to a chassis then you will be fine.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 7:03 am 
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It's upside down..

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 7:07 am 
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:lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 7:10 am 
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Looks good mate :P but wtf is going on with ya right hand spring in the top pic :?

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:07 am 
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joseph wrote:
Looks good mate :P but wtf is going on with ya right hand spring in the top pic :?


No idea hey, i'll be fixing that when i do the RUF!

Yes Stekky it IS upside down, looks better that way

It is only welded around 1/4 of the circumference by myself at the moment.. I'm an average welder.. And i have a stick

On the weekend my Dad is going to weld it around the full circumference of the pipe
Please note it isn't DIRECTLY to the Chassis Rails.. There is roughly 20mm of the Chassis Cross-Pipe that it is welded to
Paint was cleaned, surface prepped yada yada

It's going to be gusseted back to the chassis rails aswell

Thanks for the comments!

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:13 am 
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8O Now you start worrying about "look's" ??

:lol: :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:13 am 
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steknig wrote:
8O Now you start worrying about "look's" ??

:lol: :lol:


:rofl:

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:11 am 
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I don't this this was a good idea. I'm not convinced that the connection between the chassis and tow bar has been properly thought out.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 12:58 pm 
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steknig wrote:
8O Now you start worrying about "look's" ??

:lol: :lol:


x2

i reckon you should try and fab up a rear end with some fat pipes to look something like this...would be fooly sik :wink:

Armsup



Image

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:16 pm 
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these are bigger so they must be better...

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:51 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
I don't this this was a good idea. I'm not convinced that the connection between the chassis and tow bar has been properly thought out.

Steve.


Basically it's like this.

That 2" cross pipe between the chassis rails, i cut it.
There was approx 20mm of pipe left on each inside edge of the chassis rails
The pipe is 3mm steel

An angled piece is welded below the pipe, it is 2mm steel, looks like this:
O>
Except rotated 90 degrees clockwise
The Angled piece originally protruded about 25mm

So the outer edge of that icecream cone-shaped face will be welded onto the 6mm steel end plate of the Tow Bar at each end

Then, using the approx 50mmx5mm flat lengths that were the bracing arms originally on the Tow Bar, i'll make a gusset for each side back to the (PLATED) Chassis Rail

They'll span approx 100mmx100mm, on a 45 degree angle ofcourse between the Tow Bar and the Chassis Rail
The Tow Bar end of the gusset will be welded directly below the corner radius on the 6mm RHS (Roughly 6mm from the top face)

My Dad is a very experienced stick welder.. And i'm having him weld it because i trust his skills over mine (I'm nothing special with a welder)
Does anyone have any problems with how i'm planning to attatch it?
I'm pretty confident it's 10 times stronger than it will need to be
Not to mention it will add strength to the rear of the chassis compared to the original cross pipe

OH! And i'm SOOO going to get twin stacks just for you guys!

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:54 pm 
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stacks are wak, we want jet turbines!!

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:23 pm 
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it will be heaps strong enough.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 9:17 pm 
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Jccck wrote:
Gwagensteve wrote:
I don't this this was a good idea. I'm not convinced that the connection between the chassis and tow bar has been properly thought out.

Steve.


Basically it's like this.

That 2" cross pipe between the chassis rails, i cut it.
There was approx 20mm of pipe left on each inside edge of the chassis rails
The pipe is 3mm steel

An angled piece is welded below the pipe, it is 2mm steel, looks like this:
O>
Except rotated 90 degrees clockwise
The Angled piece originally protruded about 25mm

So the outer edge of that icecream cone-shaped face will be welded onto the 6mm steel end plate of the Tow Bar at each end

Then, using the approx 50mmx5mm flat lengths that were the bracing arms originally on the Tow Bar, i'll make a gusset for each side back to the (PLATED) Chassis Rail

They'll span approx 100mmx100mm, on a 45 degree angle ofcourse between the Tow Bar and the Chassis Rail
The Tow Bar end of the gusset will be welded directly below the corner radius on the 6mm RHS (Roughly 6mm from the top face)

My Dad is a very experienced stick welder.. And i'm having him weld it because i trust his skills over mine (I'm nothing special with a welder)
Does anyone have any problems with how i'm planning to attatch it?
I'm pretty confident it's 10 times stronger than it will need to be
Not to mention it will add strength to the rear of the chassis compared to the original cross pipe

OH! And i'm SOOO going to get twin sticks just for you guys!



Fixed :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:36 pm 
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5ierra wrote:
Jccck wrote:
OH! And i'm SOOO going to get twin sticks just for you guys!



Fixed :lol:


Lol.
This peer pressure is too much 8O

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:57 am 
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Jccck wrote:
5ierra wrote:
Jccck wrote:
OH! And i'm SOOO going to get twin stAcks just for you guys!



Fixed :lol:


Lol.
This peer pressure is too much 8O


Fixed propper now! :wink:

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 7:08 am 
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Yeah cool kids have stacks 8)

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Chop

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 7:13 am 
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i remember those stacks 8O

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:28 pm 
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Chop wrote:
Yeah cool kids have stacks 8)
Chop


Overkill.
At the moment i have the zorst just dump infront of the diff.. Does the trick

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