[Che]

I want to tidy up my gutter rails of my car, as their wavy appearance is the first thing I notice everytime I see the car, and it looks shabby.

The previous owner looks likes he's had a set of roofracks on too tight, or put too much weight on them at the same time. The gutters aren't buggered beyond repair - just warped to shyte and not-so-nice looking.


What sort of cost would a panel shop charge to straighten the gutter rails on a Sierra? Approximately 2 x 20cm sections of the gutter rail are warped on each side - literally where the roofracks would have been. I don't have any tools to tackle the job, nor have I done panel work of this kind before...

Gutters have me scratching my head... maybe clamp it straight again?

[MacDaddy]

che_guitarra wrote:

I want to tidy up my gutter rails of my car, as their wavy appearance is the first thing I notice everytime I see the car, and it looks shabby.

The previous owner looks likes he's had a set of roofracks on too tight, or put too much weight on them at the same time. The gutters aren't buggered beyond repair - just warped to shyte and not-so-nice looking.


What sort of cost would a panel shop charge to straighten the gutter rails on a Sierra? Approximately 2 x 20cm sections of the gutter rail are warped on each side - literally where the roofracks would have been. I don't have any tools to tackle the job, nor have I done panel work of this kind before...

Gutters have me scratching my head... maybe clamp it straight again?

Hmmm... maybe if you put some 10mm square tubing or similar, inside the gutter and use a rubber mallet to hammer onto it to straighten it....

[eldo]

I'm pretty sure if you have a clAw hammer and some timber you could beat it straight

[Lokidog]

Post up some pics of the gutters. If we can see it, we may be able to give you some help. I think there are a couple of panel beaters on here which may be able to give you some good advice.

Edit: You have to be careful what you do otherwise you may make it worse or even unrepairable.

[Che]

Lokidog wrote:

You have to be careful what you do otherwise you may make it worse or even unrepairable.

Until I get better panels skills, this is why I won't do it myself. Some jobs are best left to pros - I just don't want to be blind-sided with a hefty repair quote.


Here's a photo of each side looking 'down the line' of the gutters.

[Red89]

For a shop to do it $500 without paint, at a guess.

[TZAR]

Get some chrome strip and run that down sticking it on with some sikaflex

that would be the cheapest quickest option.

[Lokidog]

I'm not suggesting that you do the following as I'm neither a panel beater nor an engineer…

I knew a bloke that I went to college with, who de-seemed his Mini. His idea was to cut/remove the external seems running down both back quarter panels. IIRC he used metal from a biscuit tin (and fibreglass I think), on the inside to re-strengthen where the quarter panels and rear panel joined. His goal was more aesthetical than functional. I never saw the final job nor did I see it on road, so I can't say that it worked.

I've never owned a tin top, so I'm unsure whether something similar could be done in regards to your guttering. I'd also be thinking that if it were done, it would need to be done properly so…

(a) it's structurally sound
(b) it doesn't crack with the flexing or strain from being offroad

I'd guess the gutter is the join between the roof and cab and is therefore structural. Trying to straighten it yourself could lead to making it worse or even weakening it. I'd say either leave it as a war wound or pay a professional to do it.

Another option would be to buy another cab and plonk that on your chassis.

[Ben_Sierra]

Changing bodies is a bit extreme for a little bit of a wave in the gutter...

Use a hammer and a bit off wood, take it steady, see how you go...

[MacDaddy]

Ben_Sierra wrote:

Changing bodies is a bit extreme for a little bit of a wave in the gutter...

Use a hammer and a bit off wood, take it steady, see how you go...

X 2

[shep]

it looks like it is a hi-top so i reckon the fire method might work

[royce]

Lokidog wrote:

I'm not suggesting that you do the following as I'm neither a panel beater nor an engineer…

I knew a bloke that I went to college with, who de-seemed his Mini. His idea was to cut/remove the external seems running down both back quarter panels. IIRC he used metal from a biscuit tin (and fibreglass I think), on the inside to re-strengthen where the quarter panels and rear panel joined. His goal was more aesthetical than functional. I never saw the final job nor did I see it on road, so I can't say that it worked.

I've never owned a tin top, so I'm unsure whether something similar could be done in regards to your guttering. I'd also be thinking that if it were done, it would need to be done properly so…

(a) it's structurally sound
(b) it doesn't crack with the flexing or strain from being offroad

I'd guess the gutter is the join between the roof and cab and is therefore structural. Trying to straighten it yourself could lead to making it worse or even weakening it. I'd say either leave it as a war wound or pay a professional to do it.

Another option would be to buy another cab and plonk that on your chassis.

HE either never finished that and destroyed another mini or did and went over a bump and destroyed another mini, that never works, those pinch seams are actually quite strong

I would think cutting a roof gutter would suck cause its a gutter, where does the water go in the rain other than in the door

+1 on a block of wood, or just put racks on in those spots

[Che]

I've actually got a short length of hardwood (around 15cm) from work which i've routed/sanded into a template to fit into the topside of the gutter. My plan at this stage is to clamp each end into the gutter (with wooden hold points so the clamp doesn't indent the gutter underside), and bang upward along the length with a hammer and shaped bit of left over hardwood. Seems the gutters drop, but they don't rise 'above' the good sections of gutter. I'll move the template along the entire section until i'm done I guess.

Will try over the long weekend when I have more time for trial and error. Hope I don't create more problems than I began with!!!

[shakes]

che_guitarra wrote:

I've actually got a short length of hardwood (around 15cm) from work which i've routed/sanded into a template to fit into the topside of the gutter. My plan at this stage is to clamp each end into the gutter (with wooden hold points so the clamp doesn't indent the gutter underside), and bang upward along the length with a hammer and shaped bit of left over hardwood. Seems the gutters drop, but they don't rise 'above' the good sections of gutter. I'll move the template along the entire section until i'm done I guess.

Will try over the long weekend when I have more time for trial and error. Hope I don't create more problems than I began with!!!

how did you go?

slow and gentle is the best way with panel work, trying to go too far/hard in on knock will do more harm than getting frustrated at taking too long

[lordfury007]

I was thinking about this the other day... what if you were to use some steel square tubing (or a solid chunk of steel) that fits snugly into the gutter, some flat steel underneath, and a G clamp or similar...

Simply tighten the clamp and it should make the bottom the gutter smooth, then swing the G clamp to the side and tap on the sides of the gutter with a hammer to get the sides flat...

Anyway, let us know how you do it and how it goes.

[Hybrid]

A mate did cut his tin top gutters off after some substantial rust on one side. It looked pretty slick actually but I don't know what happened when it rained.

[Che]

lordfury007 wrote:

let us know how you do it and how it goes.

Failed miserably. After an hour of gentle persuasion with a hammer and wood block they ain't changed a bit. Still look like a dogs breakfast.

[2stroker]

Ok you have my interest, you obviously have a reason for having all those guitars and my son is a guitar nut as well so we need to talk, and at that time I will take a good look at your car and point you in the right direction. I do a fair bit of paint and panel, not my real job but I have restored many cars over the years and have all my own gear.

[Che]

Sorted - don't bother with wood blocks, what you need is vice grips and two metal bars to fit either side of the gutter space and clamp the fuck out of it, as others suggested. First put a wire wheel on your drill and bugger all the caulking outta the gutter then clamp, clamp, clamp. I didn't get it straight as new, but looks close enough for me.

Was gonna buy a bench vice to clamp them dead straight, but the vice grips worked good enough. Checking out my original pics above it's a million time better.

And like you said Royce, remaining little niggles will hide behind a set of roof racks. Happy days

[lordfury007]

pics or it didn't happen

[86slowsierra]

lordfury007 wrote:

pics or it didn't happen

x2

[Highway-Star]

Dig


I have some slightly more involved gutter rectification to do. I would consider taking it to a panel beater, but I don't have any time during the day (and its a $350 car ); so want to slowly fix it of an evening, and on Sundays.

I understand the slowly bending the gutter straight; but I would like some advice on what I will need to do first.
As you can just make out in the below pictures the whole lot has been pushed down, and I somehow need to raise it again. Any ideas?
But my main concern is, how should I go about getting rid of that one big whack just behind the drivers door and above the rear side window? Surely not slowly hammering up further and hope the bottom pops out with it?










Once its all straight (enough), removable roof sliders will be going on. So perfection is not important, but being able to fix a straight length of tube to the gutters is.

[ajsr]

hammer and dolly
a brick hammer would probaly work ok, put a nice heavy dolly underneath and keep moving along the gutter.
hammer NOT bash the fuck out of it or you will streach the steel and make it worse

[Fatzook]

I'd just be knocking it around with a hammer and a dolly. Take it easy and you should be fine.

[Highway-Star]

So a brick hammer has a really square business end right? Not sure I have one available to me. Have a few smallish ball peen hammers, and numerous claw hammers (though surely they would not be suitable?).

I won't be bashing the fuck out of it. I usually get no where because I tap it like a fairy...

[steak_knife]

I have dolly's here if you need em..

[Highway-Star]

steak_knife wrote:

I have dolly's here if you need em..

Cheers Steve!
I'll see what the neighbour has first, I know he has some dollies.

[steak_knife]

Highway-Star wrote:

steak_knife wrote:

I have dolly's here if you need em..

Cheers Steve!
I'll take you advice & ute chop it, it's the only sensible thing to do.

Yer...

[Highway-Star]

steak_knife wrote:

Highway-Star wrote:

steak_knife wrote:

I have dolly's here if you need em..

Cheers Steve!
I'll take you advice & ute chop it, it's the only sensible thing to do.

Yer...

No need to think like that anymore.
I have a roof slider design, and will hopefully be picking up materials tomorrow morning . Mostly clamp on too, making it essentially removable, and able to be transferred to another vehicle should the need ever arise. Though at around 20kg it might make the car a little less stable

[ajsr]

a cheap brick hammer is a great investment.
because they have a long sharp face they get into things like gutters well and spread the inpact over a large area.
they are great for setting lines into panels for folding etc

a pointed hammer is not ideal but will work sort of,
a brick bolster (brick cutter) will also work very well for what your doing but it will make it a two person job