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Post Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 5:18 pm 
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suzukilwb wrote:
have googled it and looked at a lot of them did it befor i posted anything and i was going to ask whats the best way to wend it

cruch the tube at the end or is there a way to cut it to fit
i am not sure how to do it and make it strong what would be the beast to make it out of


For safety, I'd get a professional to check your ideas. Mine was made from 42nb 3mm wall tube. I think you will need access to a decent bender and a notcher to make a good cage.

Mine was built by Daisy and it held up very well at Tough Tracks last weekend. I rolled 2 1/4 times on rock, and only damaged an unprotected and already dented flare. Someone here might have pics of mine...

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:49 am 
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Reubs wrote:
suzukilwb wrote:
have googled it and looked at a lot of them did it befor i posted anything and i was going to ask whats the best way to wend it

cruch the tube at the end or is there a way to cut it to fit
i am not sure how to do it and make it strong what would be the beast to make it out of


For safety, I'd get a professional to check your ideas. Mine was made from 42nb 3mm wall tube. I think you will need access to a decent bender and a notcher to make a good cage.

Mine was built by Daisy and it held up very well at Tough Tracks last weekend. I rolled 2 1/4 times on rock, and only damaged an unprotected and already dented flare. Someone here might have pics of mine...


Here it is (the white one)... and its actually a 32nb pipe...

Image
and this one below is a different one I did on another sierra.
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Image

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 3:04 am 
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The red sierra above is still getting brush bars and a winch bar at some stage in the future once the owner gets a winch and brings it back to me.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 4:01 am 
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Tom, whilst Reubs exo held up to what was a very heavy roll, I think the exo may have been part of it. I, personally think there's too much weight in it to be suitable on a Sierra. the same with the roof on the Red one.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:22 pm 
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Yup, I had been thinking about that when reubs was talking to me about the roll and believe the weight up higher problaby contributed to the roll due to the COG moving up bit higher.

total weight of the exo would be about 60 kg I believe (two blokes can lift it off- still fairly heavy up high on a lighter car which has bugger all unsprung weight.

At the end... he still got the result he wanted... and that was to protect his car from major panel damage.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:55 pm 
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True and very lucky he got someone with knowledge and can weld to build it for him. Good job Tom. Honestly he would have rolled regardless of the weight of the cage.

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 4:59 pm 
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daisy wrote:
Yup, I had been thinking about that when reubs was talking to me about the roll and believe the weight up higher problaby contributed to the roll due to the COG moving up bit higher.

total weight of the exo would be about 60 kg I believe (two blokes can lift it off- still fairly heavy up high on a lighter car which has bugger all unsprung weight.

Personally, I think the car would have rolled reagrdless. I was driving where I was told, but too fast.

I think weight of the exo above the cars COG, would be about 40kg. I have also added heavy sliders and rear bar to counter this. Also, I could have fit another 45+L of fuel in the L/R tank that day, obviously below the COG. Maybe an 85kg passenger in the front would have also countered the exos effects? Usually off-road there is a heavy load in the back, unlike at Tough Tracks, where a winch and spares was replaced by a subwoofer!

If you are after an exo, I say go for it.

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:36 pm 
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if ya need a notcher i have 1 here that will cut up 2 2inch pipe if ya want 2 borrow it some time will cut up 2 45 degree each way so yeah if ya need it its here


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Post Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:53 pm 
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how much do a good notcher cost?

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 2:09 am 
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31zook wrote:
how much do a good notcher cost?


Nothing wrong with the cheap ones - they do flog out eventually (mainly the clamp part that holds the pipe on - just replace it with a high tensile M12 threaded rod with a new handle and you're set)

My notcher cost me 395 from OPW ages ago.. got the JD squared one, Im quite happy with it thou as it hasnt missed a beat in 3 roll cages and two buggies.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 5:10 pm 
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i got mine off ebay 4 like 200bucks

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:55 pm 
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wow im going to get one now :D

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 12:08 am 
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31zook wrote:
wow im going to get one now :D


they also sell them at hare and forbes - same as the one pictured..

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 12:20 am 
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i'm having flashbacks to primary school, my school playground had less tube than that 8O 8O

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 12:25 am 
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31zook wrote:
how much do a good notcher cost?


$2600 for a good one

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Produ ... kCode=L850

we can only dream on apprentice wages :lol:

but yer this will do https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Produ ... kCode=P090

though if you buy one of them types try get one that will do 60* or higher.

i will buy a notcher one day, ive just been using a vice, drillpress and a good eye :lol: and im using a shit hole saw thats probably only got 2 teeth on it now :lol: still works and did my notches for my rock slider extentions

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 4:38 am 
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YOu can do most notches with straight cuts with a drop saw, yes the are not perfect but they are damn close to what's needed.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 1:49 pm 
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just_cruizin wrote:
YOu can do most notches with straight cuts with a drop saw, yes the are not perfect but they are damn close to what's needed.


it only takes a bit of a touch with a grinder to make the notch spot on.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 10:35 pm 
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depending on how thick the wall of ya piping is if ya want a perfect weld then notching is by far the best way makes for a really nice weld and is alot less chance of blowing holes in ya pipe

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:41 am 
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HAHAHA ok soo your wanting to build your exo from scratch.... And your asking how to end your bars snf how to bend it to keep it strong? hmmmm
IF you do end up building it your self can you please please please post the pic of the aftermath the first time you turtle it......
There are just some things you shouldn't do without knowing how to do. When it comes to safty stuff like that ......
Find a freind that knows his way around a welder and bender.

I only spoke up about this because a good mate of mine built a cage in a bush basher. He came sideways around a corner and clipped a tree that pushed the side bar he put outside the door through the door and now he cant use his arm.
This happend because used the wrong temp weld for the type of tubing he had.

JUST BE CAREFULL I am all about doing things cheap but be smart.

P.S. I cant spell either :roll:

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:41 pm 
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shep wrote:
hat atari where did you find that? do you have any more photos?
that looks like what i want.


I found the yellow one on the net years ago & there was a bunch of pics. Looked for ever and ever to find em again to no avail... should have saved the lot...

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:01 pm 
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if your realy interested.google how to weld roll cages. Better yet go to the miller fourms and in motorsport theres a huge thread on welding roll cages.for some of us its comonsence how to make stuff that can withstand impact

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 9:17 pm 
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Dee wrote:
shep wrote:
hat atari where did you find that? do you have any more photos?
that looks like what i want.


I found the yellow one on the net years ago & there was a bunch of pics. Looked for ever and ever to find em again to no avail... should have saved the lot...


found sum :D

Image
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Post Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 9:37 pm 
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great find Dee!!

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 4:26 pm 
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Dee wrote:
Image

I reckon the body of that Zuk would be reduced to scrap the first time it rolls all the way over!

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:43 pm 
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I don't like the half and half things where they are attached to both the body and the chassis, should be one or the other in my believes

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:10 am 
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That yellow LWB is a very nicely built car, but I really think the cage hasn't been handled well IMHO.

Despite the soft on it, there's no way the top will work - the bar going outside the tub on the vertical will stop the top sealing.

The vertical bar on the rear 3/4 outside the tub would be an anchor on the stuff I drive.

What's with the horizontal bar over the tailgate? What's that protecting? air? It just seems to be compromising the usability of the car for no real reason.

OK, so it has a custom dash - (dumb in itself... but anyway) so why not run the A pillar bar right up against the windscreen and down the front of the door opening so it doesn't make the car a massive PITA to get into?

Just some thoughts. Cages are harder to design than many people think.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:54 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Just some thoughts. Cages are harder to design than many people think.

Steve.


This stands for almost everything people fabricate.
Doing FEA and optimising the design is a total PITA, can take longer than the fabrication (once design is selected).

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 3:51 pm 
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I'm thinking about undergoing a exo soon, i will draft up a setup at work when i get a chance to measure up the zook.
I plan to use 42od x 3.6 or 4mm wall....3.6 is 3.44 kg/m and 4 is 3.79....
Not the first cage we have made but first exo, so i will do some cad work and thinking before hand.. My car being a $h1t tin already i might run a bar or two through the shell, bolting to the exo so it can come out at a later date. Should stop any twist if it has a good drop! :roll:

Adam

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:41 am 
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Post Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:22 am 
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Noddy has the Idea :roll:

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:wink:

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