http://www.auszookers.com/ auszookers en-us Fri, 25 Nov 2011 08:55:16 GMT 1440 CPG-Nuke Dragonfly auszookers News http://cyber.law.harvard.edu/rss/rss.html http://www.auszookers.com/images/logo.gif http://www.auszookers.com/ http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=53 what a day king of the rim turned out to be ......34 starters ,and only 17 finished the gruelling course.....the mighty lj80 that rulled the day at mud bulls (landcruiser park ) didnt even manage to complete the course before it snapped 2 tailshafts and a lockrite.....but the mighty v8 sierra tackled the course with no problem finishing a credible 4th overall...10 miutes of pit penalties dropped us from 3rd to 4th......loookout next year Fri, 25 Nov 2011 08:55:16 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=52 king of the rim is coming up in a week ......and the hillbilly crew will be ready , there 400hp sierra has had a transfere upgrade (atlas5;1)and the turbo 400 replace by a updated 700...and a second set of new shocks ( the brand new tough dogs got 80m before they siezed)....the back up vehicle will be there , the mighty red lj80, it made such a good impression on the tracks at mud bulls on the weekend.....the lj80 and a rouge lj50 certainly put the other big rigs to shame (the 50 ended up on its roof at one stage , much to the delight of onlookers).....the zukes will certainly make an impression Fri, 11 Nov 2011 09:21:10 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=51 Firstly, welcome to auszookers.com! 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If you register new usernames and come back and continue, your IP address will be blocked and then you wont be coming back at all. ============== ...... thankyou for registering, and if you have any problems, remember, it's all royce's fault Sun, 09 Oct 2011 03:45:39 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=50 Recently i put a G16B 16V EFI, out of a 1994 vitara, into my 1991 sierra WT. Thought i would post up a little "how to do it" type thing for anyone that is looking into doing it. PLEASE dont dribble on with rubbish in this thread, just add things that will help.. otherwise it will be 20 pages long full of crap.. and pretty much pointless!! Well, i got an adaptor kit from BenT (through outerlimits.com). This cost $200AU inc shipping to my house. In the kit, you get eng mount adaptors, bell housing adaptor plate, studs etc etc, and very detailed instructions!! I got the motor locally with lume, comp, starter, airbox, dash, and exh manifold. I also got the EFI fuel tank. Firstly i removed the old 1.3.. RIP. Nows a good time to clean the eng bay! My zook is SOA, so i didnt need to alter the sump. If yours isnt SOA, there is heaps of info about altering the sump around this forum! Next i prepared the 1.6. Put the 1.3 flywheel, clutch and pressure plate onto the new 1.6. Like most of the conversion, Its a bolt on fit . Next is the eng mounts. On the exh side of the 1.6, bolt on the 1.3 eng mount. In BenT's kit you get 2X 6mm thick washers.. these are to be fitted as shown (on the top two bolts of the eng mount) The intake side 1300 mount needed the holes to be opened up a tad (2mm or so).. so it could fit the block. A round file took care of that! Now, another part of BenT's kit!! Bolt the box section eng mount adaptor to the rubber eng mount.. Now, to fit the 1.3 clutch cable bracket to the 1.6, i had to cut a small triangular shape out of the bracket, so it would clear the eng mount. then in the back of the block, i removed the 2 tubular dowels, and then removed the 2 studs from the gearbox. Now again in the BenT kit, get out the 2 studs, and the 2 countersunk cap screws. Put the 2 studs into the top 2 holes in the block, with the longer stud going into the hole that had the dowel. Then i bolted the adaptor plate to the gearbox.. using the 2 countersunk cap screws. Now you can put the new 1.6 in place!! Lower it in, and then bolt it up to the gearbox using the parts that are in the BenT kit. I had to loosen the gearbox mount to enable the eng mounts to line up so i could bolt them on.. think this is a common thing to do though. As for the starter motor, it says everywhere to use the 1.6, cause its narrower. The starter that came off my 1.6 is exactly the same as the 1.3 starter!! So i put the 1.3 starter onto the new motor (cause it was fairly new).. and it works fine!! Not sure what happened there.. but im happy. You can get a 1.3 starter to fit, it just needs grinding. There is info about this on the forum though. Heres the motor sitting in place.. As for the EFI fuel line side of things, i brought some EFI hose, EFI filter, and EFI hose clamps.. and replaced the non EFI hose/filter with it. I did continue to use the original steel fuel line that runs along the chassis though, which saved heaps of mucking around! I made up some mounts for the new tank. This is one hell of a tight fit!! I have a custom rear shocky bar, which just allowed enough room. But using this tank made life easier, cause the pump is built inside the tank. I lost no depature angle/clearance either!! All of the heater hoses and radiator hoses hooked straight up to the 1.6, cause their in the same spot!! As for the radiator, alot of people do run their 1.3 radiator with the 1.6 eng.. i tried, but didnt work.. kept overheating. A clean out of the radiator would have fixed it.. but for the same price i got a 1.6 radiator.. few custom mounts and it fits in beautiful. The exhaust, sometimes the manifold will hit the chassis rail. I was lucky again.. mine misses by about 15mm. If it does hit, they say extractors will clear. The eng pipe i used is off an SS commodore.. the flange etc was the same!! Next was the wiring. I got help with this..it was a nightmare!! this isnt all of what i started with.. there was more!! but i ended up with this It was a pain to get the right diagram too.. www.suzukiinfo.com have all the wiring diagrams on their site for free!! If not, ask around.. heaps of people have them on their harddrive. Pretty much, you have to sort out what you do, and dont need. For eg.. you dont need the 1.6 interior light.. so snip snip. But you do need the 1.6 starter signal.. so dont snip snip. But before you do snip, you have to make sure that the wire doesnt supply power (or earth) to something else that you do need!! Its a pain in the arse!! You can buy lumes ready to go from USA.. or ask around on the forum, theres a couple of people that have done a bloody good job in the past that may be interested in helping you!! But it is a VERY time consuming job.. and a job that shouldnt be stuffed up.. so it may cost a fair few $$. I ended up mounting the comp, relays and diognostic plugs in the dash. Now the VSS (vehicle speed sensor).. apparantly this has to be hooked up for a few reasons.. to tell the comp what speed your doing (or something like that).. which in return provides better fuel economy, but the most important, to stop that check eng light from staying on!! There a couple of ways to do it.. at the bottom of this page is one way to do it http://www.azrockcrawler.com/_images/tech/2003/2-0216vmotor/2-0316vmotor2.html I did mine a similar way. I pulled apart the 1.6 and 1.3 dashes, and got to the speedo mechanisims (speedo). On the 1.6 cluster, is the VSS. Its a lovely little thing.. which is very hard to describe. Its this thing here that has the 2 wires coming off it! The 1.3 speedo was put aside.. and i then prepared the 1.6 speedo. I then hooked up the 2 wires, as pictured (remember this is on the 1.6 speedo now!!). The red one goes to the comp, the black one goes to earth. The 1.6 speedo will bolt straight back into the 1.3 cluster. The only thing that doesnt line up now is the backing plate (that has the speed etc on it). I cut the 1.3 and 1.6 plates in half, and put the 1.6 backing plate into the 1.3 cluster (same as the speedo.. so now its a 1.3 cluster and 1.3 backing plate, except for the speedo and the speedo backing plate, which is 1.6) I cant think of anything else to put in here.. oh, heres what i did with the airbox. I used the 1.3 airbox, with the 1.6 air flow metre. Pictured here is the 1.3 radiator.. i now have the vitara radiator, so this set up has changed slightly. Oh, i have 1" body lift.. and with this, it clears by about 2mm!!! Something else to consider. The outcome is awesome.. im in love with EFI now!!!! On road, theres heaps of power gain!!!!!! Off road, it crawls bloody beatiful now, and has HEAPS of bottom end grunt to. Wish i had of done it ages ago. Hope this help Hope this helps.. Sun, 09 Oct 2011 03:42:29 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=49 Well heres my 2 bobs worth of input from when i did the conversion about 12 months ago. The conversion was for a 1991 WT sierra. I used the front housing from a flat tray 1980 lux.. and a bundera using for the rear (not sure of the date). At first, i tried using a standard hilux rear, but due to the transfer being off centre, i had HEAPS of dramas, which is why i went to the bundy housing. I also put hilux front springs into the rear of the zook at the same time. I ordered new perches, high steer kit, shock hoops, shock mounts, U bolt flip kit, and the kit that aligns the drivers side perch to the correct location (cant really use a new perch in the correct location cause the diff centre is in the way). All the parts are here.. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samyotaswap.htm Next, i started on the rear.. pulled out the zook diff etc.. Then i welded the new perches on in the right spot, i also welded new shocky mounts onto the housing, and inverted the shocks. With the utilising the 3 hole perch, i also moved the diff back 1". The lux diff in the rear, with the original zook front still Then i started on the front. I ripped out the housing etc, took off the old shock mounts, and steering (tie rod etc, but left the sierra steering box) Then i made up the high steer kit, and bolted it on, and made up the other kit to re-align the drivers side perch Here she is "nearly" all done.. a flexy pic. This is with 32's, and was 5" wider than the original zook diffs At this stage, i also made up the shocky hoops etc. On the first test drive, i started having HUGE probs with bad vibrations.. i tried making up castor wedges to get the diff and transfer flanges paralel Didnt help at all. I also tried running double cardon joint shafts etc.. didnt help either. Oh, i'm also using a hilux rear shaft in the front.. just chopped down to suit. In this pic, you obviously cant see the difference in the flange angles.. but ya can "sort of" see the other 2 angles. no wonder the poor uni's were vibrating like mad then i found a bundera diff.. which is off centre Luckily i still had some spring perchs and shocky mounts left over.. so i chucked them in for the photo to!! Cleaning them up ready.. Here she is all pretty much back together. Oh, for memory i welded the perchs on so the 2 flanges were 0.8 degrees different. First test drive, problem fixed!! Drove beautiful! (oh, now im using a lux rear shaft in the rear aswell.. so no more DC shaft!) Now im running 35X11.5X15 tires.. and this is the track width (on cruiser rims) Then i did a RUF, and with the SPOA the brake hoses were to short.. so i made up new mounts The new setup.. with new brake hoses too. A good shot of the high steer and diff etc.. Oh, i also Had some more dramas with uni angles.. the standard lux uni was crashing on itself and wasnt allowing flex.. after a bit of researching.. i found a slip joint out of a 85 lux (DC joint end) has heaps more angle!! . At the end of it, i am running these 35's.. twin lockers with a vitara EFI motor, and havent busted a single thing. Hope i havent missed anything.. please add anything else anyone can think of! Im sure the list will be huge! hehe Sun, 09 Oct 2011 03:41:50 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=48 It would help to have as little petrol in the tank as possible before removing the tank. Ensure there are no naked flames or sparks anywhere in the vicinity of where you are working. Place a drain can under the filler hose, undo the clamp and remove the filler hose. Remove the wire from the fuel gauge and the two hoses from the top of the tank. This is pretty straight forward if your car has a bodylift, but may be a bit of a pain if you don't. If this is the case loosen the four bolts that hold your tank in as much as possible without removing them completly, so you can acess the hoses. If the hoses are hard to remove try twisting them or butting a screwdriver up to the end of the hose and hitting the screwdriver with the palm of your hand. Working from underneath the car undo the main fuel line from the pickup on the fuel tank. Use a 17mm and a 14mm spanner to loosen the pipe. Do NOT use just a single spanner on the pipe or else damage to the pick up line on the tank will result. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the tank in and remove the fuel tank from the car. Refitting is a revesal of the above procedure Sun, 09 Oct 2011 03:41:24 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=47 The screws Suzuki use to hold the door hinges etc to the car look like they are easy to remove but can be damn stubborn. I have tried several methods to remove them and spent a few $$ on impact driver bits that just shatter..Impact driver can also dent panels, not that the average Zook owner cares about a small dent but there are still a few nice shiny ones out there. There is also the option of drilling screw and using an Ezi-Out but this is time consuming and destroys the screw. Done properly my method marks the screw but it is re-usable if needed and does not mark the body paintwork at all. STEP 1: You will need: Hammer, Coldchisel, Large phillips head screwdriver. Step 2: Place the coldchisel on the edge of the screw like shown below. Strike with hammer hard enough to put a notch in the screw. STEP 3: Keeping the tip of the chisel in the notch, lay it over a bit as shown. Undo is anti-clockwise so always lay it to the right when looking at the screw head. STEP 4: Strike again with hammer and screw will begin to rotate. STEP 5: Remove screw with screwdriver. Always use Coppertec or NevaSieze or similar when reinstalling these screws and removing them in future will only require a screwdriver. Ideally they are best replaced with stainless button head capscrews. Sun, 09 Oct 2011 03:41:08 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=46 on behalf of mud-pig MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote: I did the whole front end over the weekend, learn t some things but its all done and here is my info for those looking at doing it themselves that might need some help. For those that are already pro well how about adding some extra tips or ideas that I might have missed. Tools Gear So Im going to basically put in with a few steps and other tips I have done. Loosen up your wheel nuts before jacking the wheel up Crack your outer hub bolts with the wheel on the ground - 10mm bolts. Remove the bolts and pull out the face and dial. Your next faced with a "C" clip on the end of the axle you cant remove the outer hub casing until you have taken this off. Its good to have the right tool for this or screw drivers can do it You then need to remove the bolts from your outer hub casing they are 12mm. I use a screw driver in the wheel studs to crack them. Take of your caliper bolts on the back are 17mm (generally, the other side of mine where actually hex key bolts) Next if you have the special wheel bearing toll you can remove the nuts if not use a screw driver on the corners to loosen them up. Remember there is a lock tab in the middle stopping them from moving, bend the tabs back first. Its should go Lock nut - lock washer - another nut - Lock washer Take your hub of generally the disk will seperate easily if not knock it of if you want for puttting in the new collars and wheel bearings later. Next remove the four bolts that hold on the casing and backing plate for your brake caliper, these are a 14mm bolt. Note the way the backing plate is as you take it off for putting it back on remember the cast writing faces inwards towards the 4by Next you can remove your Kinpin bolts top and bottom 12mm bolt. Remember to note top and bottom I normally put the top one on the Spring and the bottom on the group to remember. Also look at how many shims are on each one for when you put it back and you are cleaning the gear up for re-assembly. You can then remove your axle. At this stage after removing the hub as I am on the passenger side the axle is longer, Im not sure if it has anything to do with the High steer knuckle but when you put this back together I needed to put the axle in before the sliding the knuckle over and putting the kinpin bearings in. It could have something to do with the amount of movement in maneuvering the longer axle back into the center of the diff? Originally I followed the way everything came out and couldn't get axle back in. I had to take of the new seals and other kinpin gear to get it in. After this remove all the scraper seal bolts on the back of the swivel hub they are 10mm bolts, not how your metal brackets come of and are mounted as it is tricky getting them back on. the inner metal tabs mount as a upside down "U" and the outer ones that capture the felt and scaper seal mount like a "C". Okay next clean up all your gear of oil and other dirt and crap. Remove your old axle seal with a big screw driver its not hard to pop it out. Knock your Kinpin bearing collars out with a punch and hammer (stop hammer time LOL) At this stage things started getting late, so had to speed things up. But basically remove your old wheel bearing collars. knock your new ones in. re-pack your wheel bearings and kinpin bearings. Slide your new scraper seal on its easier to do it before putting in the new kinpin collars on. put the new felt on rest them up the back for now. Pack your bearings scraping the bearing over your palm till the grease pushes out the tops all the way around. Pack your CV's with new grease put your new seal in slide the axle back in. Put your new collars in, put the bearings in. Slide your swivel hub back over, do up the bolts for the Kinpins top and bottom. Mount up your plates on the back of the swivel hub make sure to capture the scraper seal properly. I started from the tops to hold them in then tightened the nuts up from the middles out. Start putting your gear all back on the way it came out. Put your new locker washer in bend the tabs over locking the bearings into place make sure they are tight but not to much that they cant spin. Put your hub casing back on, put your "C" clip back on and the out case. Tighten it all up and put your wheel back on. You will probably want to check all the gear after a wheeling trip or 500ks or so. Sometimes I have even had to tighten up the bolts a little on the wheel bearings. Sun, 09 Oct 2011 03:40:40 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=45 the'' bunzuki '' team will be entering the king of the rim challenge next month , the highly modified sierra ( running a LS1) on 37s, will be running against tube buggies and other modified vehicles , its a pitty we cannot run our modified lj80 (with the injected 5k) as it has been giving the bunzuki a good run in practice......the lj just didnt meet scrutineering requirements....but will be playing at mud bulls next month Sat, 08 Oct 2011 03:56:52 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=44 I did a step by step on how to mod your 1.3 carbi hat to suit the 2" body lift first remove the carbi hat you will need a piece out of a vs commodore air box see pic remove the piece using a allen key be careful not to rip the gasket as you will need this hold the piece over the carbi hat, mark & drill holes place gasket over carbi hat and using original allen key bolts and some 8mm nuts bolt unit together you will end up with something like this then remove the stud on top of the carbi you will need a long bolt like this bolt it on the carbi and connect the air box then your all done Sat, 23 Apr 2011 09:26:20 GMT