http://www.auszookers.com/ auszookers en-us Fri, 05 Feb 2010 21:21:42 GMT 1440 CPG-Nuke Dragonfly auszookers News http://backend.userland.com/rss http://www.auszookers.com/images/logo.gif http://www.auszookers.com/ http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=36 I had a problem with my fuel gauge reading empty when the tank was full, and the gauge wouldn't start working properly until i had about half a tank of fuel. This is a pretty common thing with Sierras. Chris [nissvit] on this forum said it was easy to fix so i pulled the tank out and took some photos along the way. 1. Remove the tank 2. Remove the fuel leve float thing 3. Bend open the tags and remove the case There isn't supposed to be a gap here where the pink arrow is pointing to. These surfaces should be in contact. The usual problem is that these surfaces get a thin film built up over the years which stops the contact of the surfaces. We cleaned these surfaces highlighted by the pink lines. Stick it all back together and off ya go....simple Fri, 05 Feb 2010 21:21:42 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=35 Items needed Hammer long skinny flat tip screw driver pliers (maybe) rags NEW bush Let's start out sitting inside the vehicle. 1. Remove the transfer case shifter knob. (it just unscrews) 2. Remove the 4 bolts holding the rubber t-case shifter boot to the body. 3. Slide the rubber boot off of the shift lever and set it aside. 4. Now, Look down inside the hole, you will see another smaller rubber boot. You will need to remove this. It has a metal wire clamp holding it on but can be removed by hand or pliers. You may have to crawl under the vehicle to reach the ring but I never have needed to. See the pics below. 5. Once you remove the wire clip you can peel the rubber boot up and remove it from the shifter lever. 6. Now look at the silver ring around the bottom of the shift lever. It has a slot notched on each side. 7. You will need a long skinny flat tip screw driver and a hammer here. Place the screw driver half in and half on top of one of the slots. Push down. It should go inward just a little. You may need to push down on both sides of the silver ring. 8. Tap the screw driver and turn the silver ring "COUNTER CLOCKWISE" just like a screw loosens. It will turn maybe 1/4 inch and pop upward. 9. Pull out the silver ring and the spring under it. 10. Pull out the shift lever and set it aside. 11. Clean out all the rubber and gunk inside the t-case shifter neck (sometimes there is nothing left at all!) There is usually a small flat rubber washer still in good condition that sits on the bottom of the hole. Remove this too. 12. Now get a flashlight and look down inside the t-case. There are two rods in the very bottom with a notch in each one. They are side by side running from front to rear. Most likely the notches are not lined up. Use that long screw driver and gently move them in line with each other. The notches should form a square open box when in line. If you find that you can't get the rods to budge, try having someone rock your vehicle fore and aft. Sometimes the drive train will be so bound up that it takes a while to get the rods into position. Just don't give up! 13. Insert your NEW Bush I chose to use a polyurethane one as they last forever! 14. Replace your shifter back into the t-case. It should fit right in. 15. replace the silver ring and spring and use the same method as taking it out to re-install it. Just make sure to turn the silver ring the other way! 16. Replace the rubber boot over the shifter lever. 17. Replace the metal wire clip 18. Replace shift boot and shift knob. 19. GO WHEELING!!! EASY AS PIE!! Takes about 20 minutes! Fri, 05 Feb 2010 21:21:03 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=34 OK seeing yesterday I was in a good mood and today had to come to work and its all shit, I decided to take it out on everyone here I am just a little bit pissed about a lot of the dribble popping up around here and some people that just_don't_get_it so I am making up some guidlines for things you may see this year. Starting with general Should you feel the need to wish to post up random youtube or ebay links (and keep in mind anyone who cares quite probably has already seen it) then they are to go in these threads ONLY You tube http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=7444 Ebay http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=7218 Anybody posting new threads for such things better have good reason for it and be apparent in their initial post, there probably are links that deserve to have a thread but if I feel not I will simply delete your thread, not move it to the above threads, just delete, you may repost the link into the correct threads though. Anybody posting these links in an area that isnt chat (unless for good reason, IE helping with a tech thread or to help show a problem in tech) will of course get the post deleted and maybe banned depending on how stupid they are. We have covered the porn thing already, dont attach it to your post, link it from somewhere else, I might add that Friday and chit threads could be good places for such things instead of a new thread which may or may not go away Trips and rigs sections, there is no need to dribble in these threads and people should stop, issues regarding access and so on should be left out of such threads and probably given a new thread to stop them going too far off topic, If you are the creator of the thread and you feel there is too much dribble in it please PM a mod with your concerns and it will be looked at, be aware though that it will be looked at only, nothing may happen, your concerns may be agreed with or your thread may just go (picking out posts is hard, deleting threads is easy) Tech, I think it should be pretty easy to figure this out but its easy, you post something in there isnt tech but relelvent it will move to general, if its dribble it will go Fab, if you didnt make something or you arent asking specifics on making something IE how many amps would you use to weld this then dont post it, dont ask for pics of bars in there cause you might make one, this section will be delete only, if its wrong it will be deleted, fell free to repost it in general For sale and wanted If its on the wrong section its deleted, IE wanted in for sale, half a car in cars, EOI at all (they go in general) Thread offtopicness re threads going off topic, this seems to be a bit of a problem, so I propse this. Threads can have 1 stage of off topicness, IE somebody starts a thread about something and it travels along and somebody posts something a little off topic to it but still relevent in some way to a comment in a post then that will be ok to continue on that line AS WELL but if it steps one from that or becomes totally irrelevent then posts will go, depending on how bad or who people will go as well and being somebody that posts useful stuff other times wont be an excuse to get away with it Comments about post counts, see bannings Bannings some people are going to find themselves with time to look around the internet this year, mainly as they wont be able to sit here all day. Reasons to get banned, not being able to follow the rules over and over, constantly fighting with other members beyong what could be called healthy debate (and I like an E-fight more than most) or jsut generally never having anything useful to add, but adding it anyway. Seeing the banning system here is pretty simple, IE you get banned and thats it there is no time limit auto set and I am not likely to remember then I will have a simple warning system, should the little thingy under your name change to something along the lines of idiot or retard or something it means you are pretty close and should lie low for a bit, likewise if you find you dont and cant have an avatar or sig then take this as a hint as well. If you get banned you wont be unbanned magically, after you think you have served your time email me with your apology and you can come back, maybe No doubt I will add more to this as time goes on, when I do I will likely edit this post rather than reply so it wont show a new post so its in everybodies best interest to keep checking here now and then, not knowing will not be a defence, this isnt the real world its governed by common sense not the law. I dont think there is anything bad in this and a lot of people will probably say yeah thats all normal sense but some people dont seem to get it so here we are Tue, 05 Jan 2010 03:33:29 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=33 The main purpose of this is to show one possible way to do a suspension lift on a sierra. All problems that came up in my lift will be discussed as well as prices. I do not claim this is the only way or even the best way to do it but it turned out exceptionally well for the amount of money that has been spent. Parts needed: 2inch Front OME Springs - $88.50ea at ARB 2inch Rear OME Springs - $105.50ea at ARB Full set of poly bushes - $100 (cashie) at Dobinson Springs Full set of U-Bolts, Nuts and Spring Washers - Total $65 Boltmaster Rubber Grease - already had Rear Commodore Wagon Shocks Gabriel 81340 - $30ea Front Hiace Shocks Gabriel 81147 - $30ea Total Cost of Lift - $673 Method of Lift: First of all you need to make sure you have the car on a level ground to make it easier and safer. Jack the front diff up and remove one wheel. (Note: only do one side at a time or further complications take place) supporting the diff with both the jack and a chassis stand, remove shock to give more working space. (Also allows the spring to be removed easier). Loosen the nuts off the bottom of the U-Bolts and remove the nuts from the shackle pins and the rear chassis mount. Using a wrecking bar try and pry the shackle pins out of the spring, do the same thing with the rear mount. Once all the pins are out, completely remove the nuts under the srping plate and drop the spring out of the way. If you have not already, remove the shackle from the stock or old springs. Personally I decided these could do with a clean up so I just ran them over with the bench grinder (steel wire wheel). Insert the bushes into new spring. This may be easy depending on the bushes you are trying to use but if you are using the OME springs and Dobinson bushes, tight is an understatement. With plenty of rubber grease both inside the spring eye and all over the bush, hole it roughly in place and put into the vice. Slowly bring the vice together holding the bush firmly into place. It may slip out of place but keep trying, eventually it will go in. Be careful not to tear the side of the bush with a metal vice jaw. Slide the spring under the diff but on top of the spring plate, and sink the locating pin into the designated hole. (The diff may need to be slightly lowered to do the next step, however with force you can do it without lowering it.) While making sure the locating pin does not come out of the spring plate, push the spring back until you can push the rear pin through the chassis mount and into the bushes, and out the other side. While maintaining the same amount of forcefeed the shackle's top pin through the chassis mount and through the front eye of the spring. Line up the U-bolts and do these up first. Once they are tight do all of the pins (shackle and rear chassis mount) up tight. Compress the new shock down to the needed length and simply insert the top pin through the hole, using all nescessary bushes. Do the top nut up tight, then push the bottom mount in and do this up to. Put the wheel back on and that is one side of the front done. The method is the same for both of the front springs. Only do one side at a time or else the diff can move. When the diff moves it makes it difficult, but not impossible, to return everything to its original location. Also because i did undo both sides at first the drive shaft came out and landed in the grass which meant the tail shaft had to be removed, push the spline back in and do the shaft back up. A lot of mucking around and you do not gain anything from it. The rear of the vehicle is a lot easier. You have more experience but more importantly there is a lot less components around the back wheels. Again make sure you have the diff well supported on chassis stands and the jack and remove one wheel, to do one side. Undo everything in the same order. The method is exactly the same as the front. (NOTE: Because of the location of the bottom mount, the shock fits in between the diff and the brake lines. However my brake lines had enough stretch in them that it was possible to simple push, with a fair amount of force, them off the mount and pull them up towards the floor of the car to get them out.) Back shocks are different as they are an eye to eye configuration and the bottom mount should be done first to stop the brake lines from effecting you putting them in place. An example of the back done: Once everything is back into place and it has all been checked that it is tight, go for a short drive to let the springs settle and then make sure every nut and bolt you touched has been checked again to check it is tight and will not fall off. Shock Comparison (Red is the new ones): and the back: Stock Hieght: After it was (edited)d: This is a very cheap way of lifting your Sierra. It made the handling a lot better and drives remarkably smoother on and off the road. It can flex rather well but this has not been tested too much. Wed, 16 Dec 2009 23:33:00 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=32 I did the 323 cap on mine and my mate did the angle drive on his I think for the money the Mazda cap wins hands down but don't think for a second its a straight bolt up. The Mazda cap is 2 small and needs to be opened up with a die grinder. Go slow and keep trial fitting it. Its about 2mm that has to come off. You will also need the Mazda rotor button. Now to get this to fit the gti dizzy you will have to crack open the gti rotor button and remove the brass sleeve, on the Mazda rotor there is a little metal bit where it sits on the shaft. Remove this and discard. There is also a little lug in there. This also needs to be removed (I put a flat screwdriver in there and snapped it out). Then you need to enlarge the hole with a drill. Not too much. The brass sleeve out of the gti rotor needs to be tapped into the Mazda rotor button. Make sure the screw hole is in the right spot as its a press fit and wont come back out once the brass sleeve is fitted. Drill a hole for the locating screw and fit new rotor button and cap. Fit the leads in the correct fireing order as numbered on the Mazda dizzy cap. Mon, 14 Dec 2009 06:27:29 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=31 I couldn't figure out how to do this but it's all a bit simple once you have done it It's a big radiator so an extra 60mm wider and 530mm tall. To make it fit i had to remove the plastic guard, a mate went over the pit's and was told that he needed to replace it or find something else to hold up the brake lines. I use a piece of 25 EA and drilled two holes 545mm apart and fitted it. Then i cut the passengers side (PS) bracket off level and used a piece of 65mm EA, the difference was 60mm so that's the length i cut the angle. Once all is cut up it's joined together like so. I used standard vit rad supports but cut down to fit between the chassis rails, on the drivers side (DS) i had to join on a piece of 10x3x20 flat bar, this was because the vit rad supports sat snug around the steering box and the DS sierra bracket didn't line up so i had to join a piece to drill holes into. well that's pretty much it, it was simple and took a day out in the shed. Ill be pulling it all back out due to the missing engine and split washers then painting it black so it all blends in. The top of the vit rad sits nearly identical to the height of the sierra so can't really ask for much more than that Sat, 12 Dec 2009 21:32:04 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=30 atari4x4 wrote: hey, i've had a few people ask about my sand flag so here it is on it's own tread for easy location. try and get a 3metre length of 16mm OD and a 2metre lenght of 20mm OD and push the 2metre length onto the 3metre length, it can be hard to get 16mm condute sometimes, look around at places other than bunnings. pushing the 2 together can be a bitch, lube is your friend. this give it some good flex when it hits trees etc but will bee stiff enough that it wont crease and bend, using normal orange bunting flags drill 2 small holes at the top to mount the bunting flag and tie off. if you aren't using uhf mount on bull bar chop the head off, clean up and round off a long bolt that would just slip up into the ID of the 16mm condute and lock the bolt onto uhf mount with nuts, washers, spring washers top & bottom. on the back of the zook i bolted a tube to the spare wheel bracket thats almost roof height and the condute slides in. the peice of condute that i have been using would be nearly 8 years old & still going strong! Thu, 10 Dec 2009 00:05:18 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=29 DMAC wrote: Thought this might help anyone wiring up spotties on a sierra so they only come on if high beam is on. Schematic. Thanks to 89_tintop The back of the headlight connector. Strip the wires going to "GROUND" and "DRIVE" Join wires. "DRIVE" to the relay and "GROUND" to the in cab switch. You have to it this way as you can't run a positive from the highbeam and have the otherisde of the relay connected to the chasis (earth) as Sierria's runs 12 volts to all 3 terminals on the back of the connector. The rest of the wiring is straight forward. Hope this helps someone. JrZook wrote: Ok we will use the highbeam trigger on this to keep it legal. Suzuki head lights are ground switching. This means all the terminals at the back of the headlights will be at 12V when they are off. For instance when the high beams are turned on the GREEN wire from royces diagram of the headlight plug goes to ground. So to wire up your spotties: 1. split the right wire going to your headlight ( looking at the back of the plug, just use the drivers side headlight if easiest). 2. From this junction take a wire to '86' of the relay. 3. Directly opposite '86' is is '85', connect this to 1 termainal of a switch. 4. Take a wire from the other terminal of the switch to '30' of relay 5. Also from '30' connect this to a 40amp fuse then to 12V, the positive terminal of the battery. 6. Now connect '87' to the positive wire of your spotlights. 7. Connect the other wire of the spotties to ground, or chassie. So the spotlights should turn on when the highbeams are on and the switch is turned on. Cheers Dan Wed, 09 Dec 2009 21:05:41 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=28 Well heres my 2 bobs worth of input from when i did the conversion about 12 months ago. The conversion was for a 1991 WT sierra. I used the front housing from a flat tray 1980 lux.. and a bundera using for the rear (not sure of the date). At first, i tried using a standard hilux rear, but due to the transfer being off centre, i had HEAPS of dramas, which is why i went to the bundy housing. I also put hilux front springs into the rear of the zook at the same time. I ordered new perches, high steer kit, shock hoops, shock mounts, U bolt flip kit, and the kit that aligns the drivers side perch to the correct location (cant really use a new perch in the correct location cause the diff centre is in the way). All the parts are here.. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samyotaswap.htm Next, i started on the rear.. pulled out the zook diff etc.. Then i welded the new perches on in the right spot, i also welded new shocky mounts onto the housing, and inverted the shocks. With the utilising the 3 hole perch, i also moved the diff back 1". The lux diff in the rear, with the original zook front still Then i started on the front. I ripped out the housing etc, took off the old shock mounts, and steering (tie rod etc, but left the sierra steering box) Then i made up the high steer kit, and bolted it on, and made up the other kit to re-align the drivers side perch Here she is "nearly" all done.. a flexy pic. This is with 32's, and was 5" wider than the original zook diffs At this stage, i also made up the shocky hoops etc. On the first test drive, i started having HUGE probs with bad vibrations.. i tried making up castor wedges to get the diff and transfer flanges paralel Didnt help at all. I also tried running double cardon joint shafts etc.. didnt help either. Oh, i'm also using a hilux rear shaft in the front.. just chopped down to suit. In this pic, you obviously cant see the difference in the flange angles.. but ya can "sort of" see the other 2 angles. no wonder the poor uni's were vibrating like mad then i found a bundera diff.. which is off centre Luckily i still had some spring perchs and shocky mounts left over.. so i chucked them in for the photo to!! Cleaning them up ready.. Here she is all pretty much back together. Oh, for memory i welded the perchs on so the 2 flanges were 0.8 degrees different. First test drive, problem fixed!! Drove beautiful! (oh, now im using a lux rear shaft in the rear aswell.. so no more DC shaft!) Now im running 35X11.5X15 tires.. and this is the track width (on cruiser rims) Then i did a RUF, and with the SPOA the brake hoses were to short.. so i made up new mounts The new setup.. with new brake hoses too. A good shot of the high steer and diff etc.. Oh, i also Had some more dramas with uni angles.. the standard lux uni was crashing on itself and wasnt allowing flex.. after a bit of researching.. i found a slip joint out of a 85 lux (DC joint end) has heaps more angle!! . At the end of it, i am running these 35's.. twin lockers with a vitara EFI motor, and havent busted a single thing. Hope i havent missed anything.. please add anything else anyone can think of! Im sure the list will be huge! hehe Sun, 27 Sep 2009 23:07:57 GMT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=27 It would help to have as little petrol in the tank as possible before removing the tank. Ensure there are no naked flames or sparks anywhere in the vicinity of where you are working. Place a drain can under the filler hose, undo the clamp and remove the filler hose. Remove the wire from the fuel gauge and the two hoses from the top of the tank. This is pretty straight forward if your car has a bodylift, but may be a bit of a pain if you don't. If this is the case loosen the four bolts that hold your tank in as much as possible without removing them completly, so you can acess the hoses. If the hoses are hard to remove try twisting them or butting a screwdriver up to the end of the hose and hitting the screwdriver with the palm of your hand. Working from underneath the car undo the main fuel line from the pickup on the fuel tank. Use a 17mm and a 14mm spanner to loosen the pipe. Do NOT use just a single spanner on the pipe or else damage to the pick up line on the tank will result. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the tank in and remove the fuel tank from the car. Refitting is a revesal of the above procedure Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:49:35 GMT