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Post Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 8:43 am 
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- Mazda 1989 (not 1990 and above) 323 GTX 1.6L Turbo Distributor Cap AND rotor button....

IS THIS ALL I NEED AND DO I NEED TO MODIFY?

- Mitsubishi Astron Thermostata housing (P/N W022A)...

I WENT TO MY DEALER AND THE PART NUMBER DID NOT MATCH HAS ANY ONE GOT ANOTHER PART NUMBER?

THIS IS WHAT I HAVE FOUND ON NUMEROUS FORUMS, BUT I AM OPEN TO DIFFERENT IDEAS, I KNOW I CAN USE THE ANGLE DRIVE BUT ONE, I CANT FIND ONE AND TWO, I AM TRYING TO KEEP COSTS DOWN A BIT

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Post Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 9:10 am 
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CAPS LOCK IS NOT COOL...

what model gti motor are u useing? the mazda cap does not fit a mk1

also u can use a barina thermistat housing! and u will get a output in the right spot and the right size hoses.

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Post Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:18 am 
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The contact on the top of the rotor button will disintegrate as you tighten down the rotor cap for the first time. You can choose to fix it or leave it until it eventually wears out. The ideal solution on a MK1 or MK2 engine is to run the 90 degree dizzy adapter, as even with the Mazda cap, you might still end up touching the firewall. On a MK3, you cant use the angle drive.

FYI - The Mazda cap is not the best fit to create a water tight seal.

Repco carries the W022a as a part. The hoses you connect to it are a PITA.


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Post Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 1:58 pm 
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Like jonno_racing said, use the the barina thermostat housing- dont use the mitsubishi one. This one fits perfect (no need to grind out the holes etc).. Its from the cino swift..

I just used the mazda dizzy and rotor button and havent had a problem with it. Not heaps of room between it and the firewall but its pretty easy to do. A right angle adaptor would be good though!


Image


Image

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Post Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 5:16 pm 
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Ok just to clear something up, u can use the Mazda cap n rotar on any model g13b engine, mark 1 is the most recommend engine for using the angle drive kit as u can use old Sierra dizzy, mk1 engine does not have a crank angle sensor an this Is why it works, mk 2 n 3 engines have a crank angle sensor in the dizzy so u can't run Sierra standard dizzy n angle drive kit on those motors. Howeva u can use the the angle drive kit on mk 2 n 3 engines if u run a aftermarket computer... I have used the w022a n it fits within mm's. There is a website worth looking at http://pulsr.net/g13b/ which gives u abit of insite into conversion

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Post Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:35 pm 
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zookfun wrote:

Image


You need a new dizzy shaft seal & bearing to, make sure you take the lil coil generator out BEFORE you start to pull anything else off it, once thay get oil on em thay like to fly apart, or get e new one.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:35 am 
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cbzook wrote:
Ok just to clear something up, u can use the Mazda cap n rotar on any model g13b engine, mark 1 is the most recommend engine for using the angle drive kit as u can use old Sierra dizzy, mk1 engine does not have a crank angle sensor an this Is why it works, mk 2 n 3 engines have a crank angle sensor in the dizzy so u can't run Sierra standard dizzy n angle drive kit on those motors. Howeva u can use the the angle drive kit on mk 2 n 3 engines if u run a aftermarket computer... I have used the w022a n it fits within mm's. There is a website worth looking at http://pulsr.net/g13b/ which gives u abit of insite into conversion


I've been reading and doing alot of research over the past 2 months in regards to fitting an MK1/MK2/3 engine into a Sierra and i would have agreed with you on the above statement up until today :)
Many people were saying that you can run a MK2/3 engine on the standard ECU.....what they forgot to mention is that you need to run an different dizzy to the one that comes from a GTi.

I just got off the phone with Derrick from SuziSport and asked the question
and according to him the angle drive was designed for a MK1 engine as it only uses the fuel. You can run a angle drive on a MK2/3 (runs fuel and spark) but you will also need a Vitara modified dizzy that they can supply for an extra $165

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:06 am 
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How do you tell the difference between mk1 mk2 mk3?

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:42 am 
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anyone here running just the gti head on the standard 1.3 block, any problems i have been told that it works was wondering if its worth it as would be easier than putting in the whole g13b?

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:40 am 
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Just a few things ...

stekky , you said he needs a new dizzy seal and bearing , now i dont know if you have done them before , but that pin that retains the drive dog is EXTREMELY HARD TO REMOVE , most people break the lugs off the drive dog trying to remove the pin . secondly the seal inside is EXTREMELY hard to find , 99.9% of bearing shops look at you stupidly when you give them the size off the seal (its something like 12.45 x 20 x 7) . you cant buy it from suzuki either , as far as they are concerned you buy a new dizzy at $800 . Thirdly , to replace the bearing you need to remove the crank angle sensor trigger wheel from the shaft and it must be pressed back on in the exact position it came off. As far as i know i am the only person who offers the service to repair these distributors with the correct parts , i also made a special jig to press the pin out in the press without damaging the drive dog , and a jig to remove and refit the trigger wheel in the exact same position it came off.

To the other guys ..

The reasoning behind the angle drive for the mk1 dizzy is that because the mk1 is fuel only ecu , it has a dizzy that has mechanical timing advance (weights and springs) and vacuum advance , that the distributor is physically longer than the mk2/3 dizzy (which has no internal or external means to advance timing) and therefore no replacement cap and rotor button will make it clear the firewall . Also the reason why you cant just put a mk2/3 dizzy on the mk1 motor , because the ecu has no way to advance the timing (hence the suggestion of using an aftermarket ecu so it controls fuel and ignition)

The easiest way to identify mk1 mk2 and mk3 motors is this.

Mk1 , as mentioned has a dizzy with a vacuum advance pot . The air flow meter is on the throttle body , the mk2/3 have the air flow meter on a housing before the throttle body . The timing belt is 20mm wide on a mk1 and 25 (.4?) on the mk2/3 . There are a lot more differences , but these are the most noticeable if you just have 2 engines sitting side by side.

There are very minimal differences between a mk2 and mk3 engine which only a trained eye could spot , they are pretty much interchangeable (slightly different injectors , water hoses for the air valve in different spots , different pipes to rubber intake hose for iscv solenoid)

As for the bolting the gti head on the standard 1.3 sohc block , i have heard a couple of people that said they have done it , but the pistons are different , 2 flycuts in the 8 valve and 4 in the 16 valve , i reckon they put them there for a reason . Have never tried it myself , maybe i should one day ...

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:46 am 
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while we are pointing out some problems in zookfuns pics , that hose under the dizzy is about to split !!

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:20 pm 
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zookfun wrote:

Image



That is a Mk2 or Mk3 Engine . The Thermostat Housing is different on the Mk1 with the bolts for the cap in a horizontal plane not vertical.

Meaning that the Thermostat cap you have used wont align where you want it to on the MK1

This is the best pic i can find at the moment.
Image

I used a Suzuki Swift SA310 (G10) Cap and cut down a M16 fine thread bolt to fill the thermo switch hole.

Image

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:32 am 
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Great info losfer

UBZNZ....
Do you have a pic of the other side?
How did you run your water hoses?

I won't have a problem running the hose from the back of the block (90* Barina thermostat housing on the GTi engine) to the top inlet of the sierra radiator but im just looking for opinions on how to run the bottom radiator hose (to the back of the water pump on the GTi engine)

I've got a MK1 and the metal pipe that comes from behind the water pump runs parralel to the block but i'ts too long so had to take it off as it was fouling on the gearbox.
The metal pipe has an o-ring and comes from the back of the water pump and has actually 2 hoses that come off it (i'll try to get a pic tonight)

Any pics would be fantastic

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 3:49 am 
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brad-parker wrote:
anyone here running just the gti head on the standard 1.3 block, any problems i have been told that it works was wondering if its worth it as would be easier than putting in the whole g13b?


Bit of reading....but a short answer is YES....it's possible but according to a few people not the best option due to different pistons....
http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/viewtop ... conversion

There is also more discussion on the outers forum but you'll need to find the info :)

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