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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:15 pm 
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I tried to post this in the Good Tech section but i can't make a new post....maybe Royce or another admin can do that and amend anything they like in this post.

Anyway, usually once a week there is a new post about installing a GTi engine and i've had a few PM's asking about my GTi conversion. Last year whilst i was doing the conversion, i started writing a tech article and compiling all the information from this site as well as a few other sites to keep all the references/links in one place

I DO NOT TAKE THE CREDIT FOR THE INFORMATION HERE....I JUST COMPILED THE INFORMATION TO MAKE IT EASIER FOR PEOPLE DOING THIS CONVERSION

There are a lot of people that have contributed to below information and I personally take NO RESPONSIBILITY for the information or how accurate it is

I was browsing the forums nearly every day and it took me well over 3 months to get the correct information for my conversion and another couple of months to do the conversion/rebuild engine as i didn't have all the correct parts and had to wait a week for the exhaust and a week for the angle drive and a week for the fuel pump, couple of weeks for the engine rebuild etc etc etc


Ok....
I own a 1992 W/T Hardtop Suzuki Sierra 1.3L SJ70.
Ive purchased a MK1 GTI motor and loom and ECU (about $800)

Depending on the engine you get (either MK1 or MK2/3) you will need
FOR MK1
- Sierra distributor housing
- Angle drive kit from Suzi Sport for $395

FOR MK2/3
- Mazda 1989 (not 1990 and above) 323 GTX 1.6L Turbo Distributor Cap and rotor button (about $80)
- Mazda 323 1988 1.6L GTX rotor button $12.00
- Mazda 323 1988 1.6L GTX Distributer Cap $30.00-$54.00 depending where you get it from
This is a much cheaper option for MK2/3 then a $400 angle Drive kit
- You can run the angle drive kit on the MK2/3 but you will then need to run an aftermarket computer as MK2/3 engines run spark and fuel (while MK1 only run fuel)
- There is another option to get a Vitara dizzy (about $150 from wreckers) and modify the magnetic points by an auto-sparky for $60 if you want to run the angle drive


NOTE ABOUT MK1 and MK2/3 engines

cbzook wrote:
Ok just to clear something up, u can use the Mazda cap n rotar on any model g13b engine, mark 1 is the most recommend engine for using the angle drive kit as u can use old Sierra dizzy, mk1 engine does not have a crank angle sensor and this Is why it works, mk 2 n 3 engines have a crank angle sensor in the dizzy so u can't run Sierra standard dizzy n angle drive kit on those motors. Howeva u can use the the angle drive kit on mk 2 n 3 engines if u run a aftermarket computer... I have used the w022a n it fits within mm's. There is a website worth looking at pulsr.net/g13b/ which gives u abit of insite into conversion




masterA wrote:
I've been reading and doing alot of research over the past 2 months in regards to fitting an MK1/MK2/3 engine into a Sierra and i would have agreed with you on the above statement up until today
Many people were saying that you can run a MK2/3 engine on the standard ECU.....what they forgot to mention is that you need to run an different dizzy/cap to the one that comes from a GTi.
I spoke with Derrick from SuziSport and asked the question and according to him the angle drive was designed for a MK1 engine ECU as it only uses the fuel.
You can run the angle drive on a MK2/3 (runs fuel and spark) but you will also need a Vitara modified dizzy that they can supply for an extra $165
You will also need an auto sparky to modify the magnets for another $60.
Alternativly you can run the Mazda 323 cap/rotor option or if you really want to run the angle drive kit you can do that but you will need an aftermarket computer which adds cost as you will need to put it onto the dyno etc





losfer wrote:
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:40 am Post subject: Re: sierra gti conversion, chasing parts and info....
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11965&hilit=%2Agti+and+conversion%2A
________________________________________
Just a few things ...

stekky , you said he needs a new dizzy seal and bearing , now i dont know if you have done them before , but that pin that retains the drive dog is EXTREMELY HARD TO REMOVE , most people break the lugs off the drive dog trying to remove the pin . secondly the seal inside is EXTREMELY hard to find , 99.9% of bearing shops look at you stupidly when you give them the size off the seal (its something like 12.45 x 20 x 7) . you cant buy it from suzuki either , as far as they are concerned you buy a new dizzy at $800 . Thirdly , to replace the bearing you need to remove the crank angle sensor trigger wheel from the shaft and it must be pressed back on in the exact position it came off. As far as i know i am the only person who offers the service to repair these distributors with the correct parts , i also made a special jig to press the pin out in the press without damaging the drive dog , and a jig to remove and refit the trigger wheel in the exact same position it came off.

To the other guys ..

The reasoning behind the angle drive for the mk1 dizzy is that because the mk1 is fuel only ecu , it has a dizzy that has mechanical timing advance (weights and springs) and vacuum advance , that the distributor is physically longer than the mk2/3 dizzy (which has no internal or external means to advance timing) and therefore no replacement cap and rotor button will make it clear the firewall . Also the reason why you cant just put a mk2/3 dizzy on the mk1 motor , because the ecu has no way to advance the timing (hence the suggestion of using an aftermarket ecu so it controls fuel and ignition)

The easiest way to identify mk1 mk2 and mk3 motors is this.

Mk1 , as mentioned has a dizzy with a vacuum advance pot . The air flow meter is on the throttle body , the mk2/3 have the air flow meter on a housing before the throttle body . The timing belt is 20mm wide on a mk1 and 25 (.4?) on the mk2/3 . There are a lot more differences , but these are the most noticeable if you just have 2 engines sitting side by side.

There are very minimal differences between a mk2 and mk3 engine which only a trained eye could spot , they are pretty much interchangeable (slightly different injectors , water hoses for the air valve in different spots , different pipes to rubber intake hose for iscv solenoid)

As for the bolting the gti head on the standard 1.3 sohc block , i have heard a couple of people that said they have done it , but the pistons are different , 2 flycuts in the 8 valve and 4 in the 16 valve , i reckon they put them there for a reason . Have never tried it myself , maybe i should one day ...




MADSUZU wrote:
Post subject: Re: Who have used a MAZDA 323 1.6Lt Dizzy cap n rotor in SIERRA?
Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:27 am
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3759&hilit=%2Amazda%2A

Here we go i had to modify the 323 toro button so the rotor button itself didnt hit any part of the actual GTI electrical components. I also trimmed back the plastic as seen in these photos so the rotor button sitted cleanly on the shaft. Only possible issue i might have is with the distance between the rotor button centre metal piece thingy and the dizzy caps centre button. Its about 5mm gap. However at full throttle whilst driving the car drives fine and doesnt miss fire or play up at all etc..

So the parts i used were:
- Mazda 323 1988 1.6L GTX rotor button $12.00
- Mazda 323 1988 1.6L GTX Distributer Cap $30.00-$54.00 dependsin where you get it from
So REALISTICALLY this is a much cheaper option then a $300 angle Drive kit!!


Attachments:
P090109_13.18[01].JPG [ 130.44 KiB | Viewed 1 time ]
GTI Dizzy Mod.JPG [ 118.57 KiB | Viewed 4 times ]


Sierra Clutch/Flywheel and pressure plate (also Sierra starter motor).
I would suggest an aftermarket heavy duty clutch as stock one will slip after awhile
- Exedy clutch (Part #6474HD $235)
- There are 3 different exedy clutches
SZK-6293 (this is for a 18 spline) very un-common
SZK-6474 (OME replacement for the 20 spline)
SZK-6474HD (HD version)

- Machining of Sierra flywheel ($60)

G13B MK1 Suzuki GTI Swift motor and loom/ECU (about $800)
- Make sure you get the loom also. MK2/3 loom can not be used on MK1 or vice verse (just like the computers…you can use MK3 ECU on the MK2 but not other way around)

Electric Fan OR Use the Sierra Water Pump and original fan
- Apparently Diahatsu charade thermo fits perfectly or buy the one from SuperCheap for $45 if you’re going to go thermo
- Santos from this site explained that using vitara pulley with the sierra water pump and fan you won't need to use any washers or spacers...it will just bolt on and you can run the ribbed belt like on the GTi (make sure you get the pulley from a vitara with an engine fan as later models may be electric)
- I didn’t have room once the radiator was fitted so opted for a thermo and wired a switch so I can turn it off if doing a water crossing so the blade doesn’t snap and go through the radiator

Radiator
- Use the Sierra radiator as it is much bigger than the GTi one so you shouldn’t have a problem with overheating if you fit a thermo
- Picked up a brand new one off ebay for $150 delivered which is much cheaper and better than getting it reconditioned at Natrad (made the mistake)
- You could use a viscosic fan but then you’ll need to change the water pump to a sierra one and also the crank pulley to a V belt instead of the ribbed that the GTi uses.

Hoses/pipes
- GTi bottom return water hose that goes into the water pump is too long and will foul on the gearbox. You will need the Sierra one which is much shorter
- VP/VR commo heater hose cut down
- AE80/82 corolla and 1.6 Laser radiator hoses. (You’ll need to cut so its a 90deg bend Part #CH1530
- Some people ended up running the return hose on the passenger side over the exhaust/extractors to the radiator with a custom bracket but i ended up making my return hose out of 316L Stainless and ran on the drivers side. I tapped a temp guage for the thermo into it also.

Suzuki Thermostat housing (Part # 17561-63B01 geniune only $32.50)
- You can use the Mitsubishi Part #W022A but it’s not a perfect fit and will need modifying
- Find MK3 water housing and temp sensor (different to MK1 sensor – will need to re-wire) You’ll need to get this as MK1 has the sensor on the thermostat housing itself which needs to be replaced with Part #17561-63B01 so the hose comes at 90* and clears the firewall. The MK3 sensor is on the housing BEFORE the thermostat one
- According to UBZNZ http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=11965
He used a Suzuki Swift SA310 (G10) Cap and cut down a M16 fine thread bolt to fill the thermo switch hole.


GTI Exhaust Flange and custom extractors/exhaust
- GTI exhaust flange from laser cutters $45
- Sierra extractors $180 (from eBay)
- Or just buy the whole lot like i did….Sierra extractors with GTI flange and 3 bolt flages welded (spare supplied) for remainder exhaust for $260 delivered
from Rod at Maximum Performance Headers http://www.maxheaders.com.au/page_5.html

Use Sierra Sump and pickup onto bottom of G13B GTi engine
- Pickup bracket will need to be bent as crank will hit (when you fit the pickup, turn the crank over once without the sump cover to see if it hits anywhere before you fit the sump cover and apply gasket sealant)
- Make sure you set the TDC now if you’re going to take the dizzy off to fit the angle drive kit

Sierra/VL Turbo Commodore engine mounts
- Not necessary to change unless they’re broken but a good idea while the engine is out (passenger one takes a lot of abuse hence using VL mount)
- Use the VL turbo engine mount on the passenger side but you will need to grind the locating pin off (Repco Part #MT8395 - $58)
- Use the standard Sierra engine mount on drivers side (Repco Part #MT8186 - $42)
- If you try substituting both mounts with VL it will be a tight sqeeze and hard to align (hence the use of the sierra one on drivers side)
- Along with the actual rubber mounts, you will need to relocate the metal mounts that bolt to the block and you will need to use the Sierra ones (not GTi engine as they’re too big)

Diahatsu Feroza 1.6 EFi fuel pump ($165 from wreckers or $370 new)
- Some people use the VL Fuel Pump with a Surge tank and/or small inline fuel pressure pump but the Feroza one comes with a rubber mount that is perfect
- I’ve had problems with the surge tank/lift pump option previously



PERSONAL NOTES/OPINIONS:
-I’ve got both the MK1 and MK3 engines in my sierra’s and after stuffing around for awhile...if you have a choice i would definitely be looking for an MK1 or buy an MK2/3 engine and get the intake/throttle body/computer/ECU/loom to suit as the engines are basically ideantical

-Although alot of people have been successful with the Mazda 323 cap mod, and there is nothing wrong with it. As a matter of fact, I’ve got it on my other car but if i had a choice I would definatellby be getting the angle drive kit. It’s the biggest expense but worth it in my opinion.
If you get the Mazda 323 dizzy you will need to get a hammer and “massage” the firewall and even then it will miss by only milimeters. If you need to work on the dizzy, some people had to pull the engine or you will need to remove the rocker cover to get it out. Also under torque/stress I wouldn’t want the dizzy hitting the firewall and shortening while hundreds of km’s from home in the middle of the bush

-I would DEFINITELY be doing a rebuild on the engine as 90% of these have been reved very hard over their life so a piece of mind is always good. There is a guy on Redline GTi that does exchange rebuilds for under $2,500 with quality parts (own his own business) which i would definatelly do next time as it would be MUCH cheaper than doing it yourself. I know it's double the work, but i would recomend putting the engine in first and making it runs so you know that everything is working as it should before you pull it out and rebuild it. You certainly don’t want to be sorting electrical/mechanical issues if you’re trying to run in a new engine.

- Buy a complete vehicle if you can and make sure it's running before you pull it apart. That way you know that the engine is running and there is a fault somewhere with your install and not the engine itself

- Get all the parts first before you attempt to do the conversion as things always drag out

- Get you electrical diagrams/wiring sorted/printed before you attempt the electrical. If you’re not comfortable get in touch with Killa Kustom Kables and he will do you a plug/play loom for around $400. I think his number is 0404 811 498
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/memberlis ... file&u=137

There is also an updated loom that Royce does for $180 from this site and is a great improvement over the standard sierra one.
viewtopic.php?p=21965

- You will need to get the drive gear off the Sierra camshaft (you will need a pully to get it off and a press or vice to put it onto the angle drive shaft)

- Don’t forget to set the TDC on the crank before you take the dizzy off to fit the angle drive kit

- You will need to cut off or grind away a notch on the original housing as the bolt that holds the drive kit will foul on the housing.

- Find MK3 water housing and temp sensor (different to MK1 sensor – will need to re-wire) You’ll need to get this as MK1 has the sensor on the thermostat housing itself which needs to be replaced with Part #17561-63B01 so the hose comes at 90* and clears the firewall. The MK3 sensor is on the housing BEFORE the thermostat one

- Give the firewall a “love tap” with a hammer where the dizzy will be because even with the angel drive kit it is still be close especially if you still have the wiring harness plugs running through there

- For the sierra sump and oil pickup i had to modify my oil pickup bracket slightly so the crank didn't hit (some people have been lucky and didn't have to do this)

- You will need the Sierra clutch/flywheel which bolts straight to gearbox. People have had numerous discussions about cable snapping etc and the stiffness of the excedy clutch 'feel' but a few people have driven my car and didn't even know the HD clutch was in there

- The GTi clutch/flywheel WILL NOT bolt to the sierra block/gearbox.

- You will need to press the gear drive onto the angle drive kit (see picture)

- You will need to reposition the engine mount bracket to different holes on the GTi block (see picture) as the mounts don't line up

- You will need the sierra metal coolant pipe that comes from the waterpump (GTi one is too long and can't be modified) I would change the O ring or buy a new pipe for around $120 if yours is corroded (like mine was) - see picture

- Custom radiator hoses (ae82+ford laser/mazda 323 95model top pipe). You will need to stuff around with this possibly (depending how you run the pipes back)

- Make sure you use the GTi thermostat as it is longer that the sierra or swift generic one you get from Repco. I think the part number is 17600-85811G and it's about $40 from memory. A few people had problems with overheating when they used the generic brand instead of the suzuki original

- I used the standard GTi computer and got a auto sparkie to wire up the engine. My other car with the MK3 has a Killa Kustom Kables loom and i would definatelly be doing that as the cost is basically the same.

- If you are lucky enough to be able to get a 'coily' tank (approx $400 new) from a SJ80 sierra, then you can get the internal fuel pump or just run the external diahatsu one which is a much cheaper option (thanks to MrRocky for this information)

-If you have new extractors and don't wish to waste money, some people have welded a GTi exhaust flange which is a cheaper option but for $180 you can get a brand new exhaust which is a much better option in my opinion
You CAN NOT weld the flange onto a normal exhaust as it will foul on the engine mount (extractors are routed different).....don't ask how i know this!!!!

-I had to modify my accelerator cable (feed the wire through the pedal and use washers/bolts to hold it in place)....have a look at the pics

-You will need LOTS of spare time and a couple of mates to keep you company :)


Good websites/links to visit for more info:
http://pulsr.net/g13b/
http://www.redlinegti.com
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=29656
http://www.suzukiinfo.com/ (Suzuki manuals when you do the electrics)

(jonno_racing build)
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Ne ... cle&sid=41
(Chiney’s build)
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=3180
(DMAC’s build)
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... sc&start=0
(Modifying Mazda 323 GTX cap for MK2/3 conversion)

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=3263
(Fuel pump notes)
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=3123
(Wiring and pinouts for GTi)
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... hlight=gti
(Clutch and flywheel discussion)
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... hlight=gti
(Water hoses)
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... 922#479922


Misc GTi discussions
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... hlight=gti
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... hlight=gti
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... hlight=gti
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... hlight=gti


Shakes done an awesome “thread search” with heaps on info half way down the page…..(i’ll just copy and paste this info to make it all central)
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24300&hilit=%2Aclutch+and+flywheel%2A


NOTE:
Before anyone goes off saying that the links don't work, i copied some of the links last year before the forum was upgraded and now they don't work/load. I have no idea how to get them back or if they are saved somewhere can be retrieved somehow?! Maybe Royce or another admin can help in re-activating the links?!




THERMO SWITCHES, TEMP GUAGE CONNECTIONS ETC

#1 cluster temp guage
#2 make sure it switches ON/OFF rather then gradual resistane change.
#3 is ECU engine temp
#4 is aircon temp switch (I think)
Image
http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/viewtop ... n&start=20


MISC SPECIFICATIONS & TROUBLESHOOTING:
- If i remember correctly the fuel pressure for the injectors is 36.2psi with the vacuum hose disconnected.
- Leads should be set at (1-3-4-2)
- Factory spec is 6 degrees bdtc @ 850rpm (from memory you'll need to bridge 1 and 3. (found the 'how to' below)
- You will need to get the sierra temp sensor and replace the GTi one otherwise your temp guage won't work (will just raise into the red as you turn the ignition on)

How to: Check/ set ignition timing GTi (mk2/3)
http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/viewtop ... ing+timing

IMPORTANT:
Without actually taking the cap off and looking im quite certain that on MK1 engines the rotor buton will spin CLOCKWISE while on MK2/3 it will spin ANTICLOCKWISE
This means that the leads will be positioned different!!!!
This is very important as the engine will run rough and turn off if it's incorrect



THE FOLLOWING SITE HAS ALOT OF USEFUL INFO
http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/viewtop ... f=7&t=6993

Engine:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Discussion on building a 120 ~ 130HP NA engine
Performance 4's Article on building a 150HP NA GTi engine
Identifying Mk1 vs MK2 vs mk3 engines
ECU Error Codes MK1
ECU Error Codes MK2/3
How to set Diagnostic Mode to check ECU Error Codes
Budget Turbo
Budget Turbo Price List
Low Boost / Low Budget Turbo
Stock MK3, DSM & Supra injector flowrates
Turbo - headwork, cams and valves
G13BA to G13B Conversion
TeamSwift SOHC to DOHC Guide
Extractor/headers comparison
Aftermarket Chips
ECU identification
Fixing / Firming up of engine mounts
Exhaust sizing for N/A GTi
Re-Calibrating your TPS - MK1
Re-Calibrating your TPS - MK2/3
Testing the MAF - page 1- page 2 - page 3.
Testing fuel pressure
Air-con installation procedure
Replacing the G13B waterpump
G16B to DOHC conversion
Liana M18 engine / gearbox into a GTi. Includes turbo and ECU
DIY replacement for a faulty Cold Start Valve
How to paint the Rocker Cover
Harmonic damper / Lightweight crank pulley discussion

Engine - CAMS:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
GTI CAM Specs
Full spec's of the Tighe Engineering GTi CAMS
suprf1y talking about CAMs and the meaning of spec's
Adjustable cam gear setting - Lobe Separation & Cam Timing.
Comprehensive discussion on the timing effects of Adjustable Cam Pullies / Gears
DOHC CAM Timing - diagram and links to to the manual pages
Crane CAMS - Installing cams and checking the spec's
ISKY CAMS - Installing and degreeing racing cams. Covers the effects of advancing and retarding cam timing
Manual pages for Timing Belt tension

Fuel:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ITB's using GSX100 TB's and new manifold to suit
Quad TB Howto based on 1999-2002 GSXR 1100 -includes manifold manufacture
Quad TB's base on Honda CBR929 - good pictures of TB setup and manifold
Location of the fuel filter MK2/3
Location of the fuel filter MK1
MK1, MK2. MK3 Injector Flow rates + Pic's of the different injectors

Electricial:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Instrument Cluster Earth Repair - fixes bouncing gauge needles.
MK1 ECU Plug wiring / pinout
MK3 ECU plug wiring / pinout - complete listing
Wiring up an Apexi SAFC
How to clean the AFM Sensor
Guide to fitting a 110A Alternator (Sierra based example)
MK1 ignition Schematic
MK1 Ignition with Aftermarket ECU's
MK1 ECu / MK1 Group A ECU
Setting MK2/3 Ignition Timing - use with the Workshop Manual


COSTS (Between $1500 - $5000)
I think this will be the biggest question everyone has :)
It all depends if you can do alot of the work yourself and how 'professional' or 'dodgy' you want to do the build. Alot of the parts can be re-used if you have the skills
For example......you can re-work the sierra extractors for $45 by getting the GTi flange or buying new exhaust for $200 or if you can re-wire the car you can save yourself $400 there...if you're not changing the engine mounts that's another $85 there, if you're keeping the standard clutch that's another $240 saved and so on.....

If you want to do a 'budget' build, by keeping alot of the old items and you're confident to re-wire the engine yourself, you can get away with approximately $1,500

There are little things that will definatelly add up but a quick breakdown of what you may need....
$800 - Engine
$2,500 - Engine Rebuild
$200 - Extractors
$45 - Exhaust flange
$58 - VL Engine mounts
$395 - Angle drive kit
$80 - Mazda 323 GTX distributor cap/rotor
$235 - Excedy HD clutch
$60 - Machining flywheel
$165 - Fuel pump
$400 - Cables for ECU (auto sparkie)
$60 - Thermo fan
$33 - Thermostat housing
$40 - GTi thermostat
$150 - Radiator
$100 - MISC FITTING (EFI fuel hoses, radiator hoses, clamps, gaskets, etc)

APPROXIMATE TOTAL - $5,000



Anyway....i think that's enough :)
If i think of anything else i'll add/amend this post or just add it yourself below
As i said before, most of the information was from numerous sites and alot of members from here so I DO NOT TAKE ANY CREDIT FOR IT and I DO NOT TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY for the above information or how you use it
In saying that, hopefully this will help someone with their conversion and hopefully save them some time and headaches

If anyone in WA want's to have a look at the conversion/car to see the power or how the clutch feels, they are more than welcome to give me a call and come around to have a chat


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Last edited by masterA on Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:38 pm, edited 8 times in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:23 pm 
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Good work mate!

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 6:21 pm 
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The good tech is strong with this one.

Thanks for the post, I've been considering one of these for the LJ (only a 150% power increase!). I don't suppose anyone has some dimensions of the engine?

The LJ actually has about 7cm more space between the radiator and firewall than my Sierra so I might be able to get away with not using the right angle drive. :)

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:14 pm 
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Great Tech.
I spent alot of time trying to find most of that information.

I have more to add to this, specifically in regards to the MK1
I will dig out the photos and post .
re
Engine Mounts
Exhuast + Using Factory Extractors
Thermostat Houseing + Radiator Top Hose Plumbing
EGR + Oxy Sensor
Idle Air Bypass Valve
Angle Drive Issues
Air Box and Intake Plumbing
Accelorator Cable

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:17 pm 
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masterA wrote:
NOTE:
Before anyone goes off saying that the links don't work, i copied some of the links last year before the forum was upgraded and now they don't work/load. I have no idea how to get them back or if they are saved somewhere can be retrieved somehow?! Maybe Royce or another admin can help in re-activating the links?!

Here's how to make the links work. Take this old link as an example:
Code:
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=479922#479922

To make it work on the new system change index.php to forum/viewtopic.php and delete everything between the ? and the p=XXXX stuff.
So the new link looks like this:
Code:
http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=479922#479922

- Tim.

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:33 pm 
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:goodtech:

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:42 pm 
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I tried editing as you said Tim but it's not working....it points to a totally different post

For example
johno_racing build
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=41

When i edit it according to your description it points to Teewah Beach - June long weekend 06
http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=41

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:23 pm 
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masterA wrote:
johno_racing build
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=41

Thats a different kind of link (name=News&file=article) instead of the usual (name=Forums&file=viewtopic) so it won't convert like the others as there is no post identifier (the p=XXXX bit) since it isn't a forum post.

All the others should convert properly.

Edit: I'm guessing this is the link you wanted: http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?opt ... &Itemid=62

It comes from the Tech Articles section of the new front end.

- Tim.

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:42 pm 
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very nice!
I wrote a tech article a while back on this but this is much better!

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:54 pm 
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good stuff !
just started wiring mine today. turns over and i got spark but it doesnt seem to be getting fuel. will read through this and see how i go tomorro

cheers

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:17 pm 
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Wow wee ! Awesome tech!!

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 5:57 pm 
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awesome write up masterA Armsup I'll be using this info when I do my gti conversion :D

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:39 pm 
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You said you've had some problems in the past with the surge tank setup, what sort of problems do you mean? I'm having a few issues with my G13B at the moment so i'm just trying to work my way through troubleshooting...

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:20 pm 
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As requested

Image

Engine Bay Layout .

Stock air box has been spun around 180deg
stock intake hose joined to the GTi hose with a tube sleeve . note that the inner guards are sitting 30mm higher than stock due to a virtual lift .

the idle air valve on the intake manifold has been blanked off as it was totally blocked and permanently open due to the wax elemant leaking out . Removing it means you need to wire the idle up on the ECU so you can let the engine warm up , or just sit with your foot on the gas for a couple of minutes .

The EGR Valve if fitted will hit the brake booster and needs to be removed and blanked off . the oxygen sensor only controls the EGR valve and disconnecting it did not result in a engine check light . The bolts for the EGR blanking plate will still hit the brake booster so you can slot the engine mounts a little or dent the booster a little to clear .

The top radiator hose is routed under the intake manifold to the thermostat location on the rear . Thermo fan switch is mounted in the radiator top tank
I used the factory GTi water intake pipe and cut it down , flared the cut end and brazzed up the unused holes on it . I will try and find the mackay hoses part numbers that i used .

Image
Suzuki Swift SA310 (G10)thermostat housing - used as the G13b thermostat housing sticks straight out the back of the engine into the firewall (origionally an east /west engine). M16 fine thread bolt cut down to fit and block the factory thermo switch hole. The orientation of the thermostat bolts are different to the MK2 /3

Image

VL commadore engine mounts . Factory mount on the drivers side has been clearanced to clear the factory 4 to 2 extractors and then custom 2 to one and expansion chamber

A early Mazda 323 accelerator cable fits just about perfectly , all you need to do is file out the hole in the firewall from round to square .

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:36 pm 
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can this be moved over to :goodtech:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 3:29 pm 
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beef13 wrote:
You said you've had some problems in the past with the surge tank setup, what sort of problems do you mean? I'm having a few issues with my G13B at the moment so i'm just trying to work my way through troubleshooting...


Yeah...it was too messy with 2 pumps and the lift pump plus it was noisy as hell.
The car would stall sometimes on angles
Once the pump (not sure if it was a lift pump or the other one) shat itself i just put the feroza/VL turbo pump and no more dramas :)

What issues are you having?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 3:30 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
can this be moved over to :goodtech:



As i mentioned in the top of my post, i tried to put it into Good Tech originally but it wouldn't allow me

I though you had all the power on this forum to do it and change it?! :thefinger: Armsup

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 3:38 pm 
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they're not that crazy to give me full access :thefinger:

Good Tech wrote:
Useful Threads will be moved here, you cannot start a thread here

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:21 pm 
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GOOD TECH please captain. :wink:

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:48 pm 
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masterA wrote:
beef13 wrote:
You said you've had some problems in the past with the surge tank setup, what sort of problems do you mean? I'm having a few issues with my G13B at the moment so i'm just trying to work my way through troubleshooting...


Yeah...it was too messy with 2 pumps and the lift pump plus it was noisy as hell.
The car would stall sometimes on angles
Once the pump (not sure if it was a lift pump or the other one) shat itself i just put the feroza/VL turbo pump and no more dramas :)

What issues are you having?



Interesting. Mine drove like a piece of crap, seriously even just driving around a round about caused issues. Adding a surge tank turned it into a awesome car.

Image

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:57 pm 
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Mine just had a BMW E30 electric fuel pump /filter plumbed straight into the stock pickup in the tank.
Not ideal but never gave me any issues in the bush .

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 7:59 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
GOOD TECH please captain. :wink:


:deadhorse:

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 1:05 pm 
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Whats the extent of the killa kustom wiring loom. Is it the whole car or just rhe engine bay

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:15 pm 
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its just what you need to run the efi engine , and from what i saw in my last customers car i could do a better job for less money ... or a far superior job for the same money .

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 10:51 pm 
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losfer wrote:
its just what you need to run the efi engine


Yea stand alone engine loom that you tap into your ignition/battery source apparently.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:49 pm 
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masterA wrote:

-If you have new extractors and don't wish to waste money, some people have welded a GTi exhaust flange which is a cheaper option but for $180 you can get a brand new exhaust which is a much better option in my opinionYou CAN NOT weld the flange onto a normal exhaust as it will foul on the engine mount (extractors are routed different).....don't ask how i know this!!!!

-I had to modify my accelerator cable (feed the wire through the pedal and use washers/bolts to hold it in place)....have a look at the pics

-You will need LOTS of spare time and a couple of mates to keep you company :)



I'd love to know where I can get extractors for this conversion for $180!! are these already modified with the GTi flange on them??

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:14 pm 
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If you read throught the whole post you'd see.....

Or just buy the whole lot like i did….Sierra extractors with GTI flange and 3 bolt flages welded (spare supplied) for remainder exhaust for $260 delivered
from Rod at Maximum Performance Headers http://www.maxheaders.com.au/page_5.html


:)

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 2:03 pm 
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just to clear up something up i have a mk 3 gti swift motor which distributor do i use swift or sierra with the mazda rotor button and cap

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 4:49 pm 
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For Mk II and Mk III you'll need to keep the GTI distributor, but use the Mazda rotor button and cap. You may need to modify the rotor button to suit. You will need to grind out a bit of clearance inside the cap where it meets the distributor, and space the cap a little away from the distributor (I used a bit of insulated wire, about 2mm thick, shaped into a ring).


Last edited by ChrisN on Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 8:51 am 
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Ok cool I cant wait to start in stall

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