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Joined: Fri May 28, 2010 10:58 am
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Location: Townsville, QLD
Vehicle: 91 WT 1.6EFI

Post Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 3:45 pm 
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Most wiring diagrams and useful into is avaliable between these two sites
http://www.suzukiinfo.com/
http://www.acksfaq.com/sessionTest1b-.php


http://www.acksfaq.com/16wiringharness.htm
This is Warbird’s samauri 1.6 wiring harness instructions. This is a comprehensive guide on how to build an engine harness for a 1.6 swap. The write up is for the 3 pin airflow meter, if that is what your using you can basically just follow the instructions exactly. I had the 5 pin afm so my harness differed slightly. I just stopped and thought about things for a few minutes and adjusted my harness accordingly. For example five wires go to the AFM instead of three. There were two extra wires that were not listed in the guide I just left them in place until it was clear where they went.

Here is the wiring diagram for the 5 pin AFM I have highlighted everything that needs to be kept (the CEL wire also needs to be kept, not highlighted here). If I did another wiring harness I would probably just use this diagram, its straight forward and easy to follow.

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Wiring
This is the complete vitara harness that I started with. I’ve laid it out on the floor as if it were in the car. The bits furthest away in the picture are the engine and headlight connections. The closer bits are the under dash and in cabin connections. I’m sorry the picture is dark but I started by connecting what would go to the engine to get a feel for what needed to be kept. I then removed all the tape and used Warbirds instructions to deconstruct the harness step by step.

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Heres working through the harness. The whole injector connection can be saved intact without removing any of the tape, you need all of these connectors. Notice the pile of bags in the top right corner. I deconstructed the harness by removing wires. I made a tool by grinding a cheap flat head screw driver into a small point that I could get into the connectors to remove the wires. When a wire was removed I put it in a bag with a paper label of what the wire was and which connector and position number I extracted it from. This was important because a few (less than 10) wires differed in position in my harness than in warbirds guide. In situations like this it is important to note which position in the connector you extracted the wire from.
It would also be a good idea to take good pictures of what the harness looked like originally for when you tape it back together. As you can see here once you have it apart and there are wires everywhere it can be hard to see/remember how it went.

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Here is an example of my labeling system.

Name
Position in ECU
Position in connector I extracted it from

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In the top right of this photo is the C204 connection. When deconstructing the harness I would suggest deconstructing the harness from the computer to this connector but leaving the wires that are needed after the connector (what you see here) in place. I didn’t see the point in taking apart this part of the harness when there was no need to. Just remove what isn’t needed.

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This was the only part of the harness that I found confusing, mostly because this area of the harness doesn’t quite match up with Warbirds guide. This is the harness around the igniter/noise suppressor/ o2 sensor. I kept everything intact, I didn’t remove any wires unless I knew that they were not needed. Hopefully you can kind of see the wire colors here if you are working on this part of the harness. I always said to myself its easy to tape wires into the harness that are extra or your not sure about, but if you cut out wires that your unsure about and tape everything up the engines not going to work and you have to start all over again. Better safe than sorry.

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This is the harness above the C204 connector. The intact injector harness is on the left. Sorry its not a great photo but hopefully you can see some of the connector and colors that are retained. The wires on the top right next to the bags I was unsure about. I couldn't find then in warbirds guide, however I had extracted them from the C204 connector at some point so I removed them. There not going to do anything if nothing is connected to them.

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This is what you are left with. The two yellow connectors in the middle are to the computer. All the wires that needed to be spliced into the sierra harness (all outlined in Warbirds guide) I labeled with making tape and a pen. I also did this for the connectors as well. One thing to note at this point is that Australian Sierras only have one hole through the firewall while vitaras and foreign sierras have two holes. It is clear from the way the harness sits now that it is meant to go through two holes. This is not something I addressed and I wish I had. The wires on the left side are far to long, I had to double back the top and loop up the bottom once I had it back in the car. It was extremely annoying to do in small spaces. Just something to think about when your at this stage, a quick layout in the engine bay will give you an idea of how long it has to be.

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A final note on wiring for now. Warbirds guide tells you to deconstruct the harness and then put it back together in the car. As in connect the plugs to the engine and pass wires through the firewall grommets to the computer and plug in. I felt that this would have 1. Taken for ever and 2. Caused me to work in low light and small spaces. Creating an easy way to put a plug into the wrong terminal.
The way I put the harness together requires a lot of sitting on the floor but it gives you plenty of room to work. To get everything through the firewall I carefully passed to all thought and then cut the grommet, wrapped it around all the wires, put it back in place and then siliconed everything up. A bit rough but for a working engine I was willing to make the sacrifice.
This is probably the most difficult part of the engine swap, its very tedious and if you mess it up its terrible to go fix. The only previous experience I had with auto electrics was installing my radio and spotlights. Warbirds guide is invaluable. Work slowly and methodically, double check everything you do! You can do this whole process while your car is still on the road, mine is a daily driver. I made the harness and then triple checked all the wires and connections, I made sure I knew where all the earths were that had to be connected etc. It is so much easier to sort things out when the harness is on the floor than when it’s in the car, I cannot stress this enough. I spent two weeks preparing the harness and two days splicing it into the car/ hooking everything up and in the end the first time I turned the key it started!

I will come back to integrating the sierra and engine harness later.


Engine

This is the 5 pin air flow meter

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To prepare to take the 1.3 sierra engine out I removed the airbox and radiator as well as the exhaust manifold. I was going to get a whole new exhaust system put in so I just removed the all of the exhaust components.

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Removing the old 1.3. Its easiest to remove the engine and gearbox together. Make sure you undo all the wires and hoses from the engine. Its best to start lifting it out and double check you got everything, there were some heater hoses that I missed and they don’t make a very reassuring noise when they pop off. One thing that I didn’t think to do but I wish I had is to put new engine mounts in at this stage. I had a broken one and I wish I had ordered a new set. I would have taken 5 minutes to do at this point.

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To prepare the G16B to put into the car I used this
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4853&hilit=g16b+conversion

Its a really good write up on how to put the Ben T kit on.

Putting the G16B in.
I only had the engine crane for the weekend and I stripped one of the gearbox studs. I didn’t have a die so I just had to put the engine back in and do the gearbox later. This stuff up ended up making this conversion three days longer. The gearbox was a real bastard of a thing to get in and I had a 2” body lift as well. So in retrospect borrow an engine crane don’t rent one for the weekend so if something like this happens you can put the engine and gearbox back in together. I also did a falcon 110 amp alternator upgrade as well. Easiest to do then the engine is out. I used a 4pk-835 belt and it still leaves plenty of room for adjustment.

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Engine is in, now you have to sort out an air intake and fuel system. There are heaps of different ways to do this.

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Fuel system:
I used a coily tank and an intake vitara efi pump. I was lucky enough to find this stuff, coily tanks are pretty rare. I used the standard fuel filter off an efi vitara (ryco Z440) and put it in the stock position where the sierra filter was. To connect the filter to the tank I got two fittings from enzed hydraulics that push into the hose. You also have to get high pressure fuel hose. The hose that supercheap sells is reinforced so it is fine for a small engine high pressure setup. The enzed fittings were a banjo fitting for the top of the fuel filter and a male threaded fitting to screw into the in tank fuel pump. For the fuel lines to the engine I used the stock steel rails and hose clamps with new fuel line. I replaced all of the original fuel hoses with new stuff.
This is just one of heaps of different ways to get fuel to the engine.

Air intake:
I wanted to run the vitara airbox however I only had the top and couldn’t find the bottom at any wreckers. Instead I scoured the wreckers for different sized air intake hose that would allow me to run the AFM inline with the original sierra airbox. I pulled pieces out of a commodore and a kia I think that were the right size.
Below I used:
Vitara rubber- vit metal pipe cut to size- kia hose- commo plastic pipe- commo hose- AFM- sierra hose and airbox.
You can see that the sierra hose has crimped so I’ll look into changing it in the future but for now the engine runs.

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Also get a vitara EFI accelerator cable and put a bolt through the pedal like this. Also in the top of this picture you can see the aux fusebox for the fuel pump. Easy job from supercheap.

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Your going to have to take apart the inside of the car more or less like this. The glove box liner has to come out to give you easier access behind the glove box and the cluster has to come out to put the VSS and check engine light in.

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The vss installation is detailed in Warbirds guide. It took me about 45 mins to do. Easy and straight forward. The wiring in the back was a little different to warbirds guide. The screw is the vss ground and that wire grounds to the body anywhere behind the cluster. The yellow wire connects to the yellow wire in the engine harness. I used blade connectors for both to make it easy to get the cluster out again if I need to.

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viewtopic.php?f=14&t=25507&hilit=no+check+engine+light
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8781&hilit=check+engine+light
Use these to make the check engine light

http://www.rhinopower.org/diag/cel.html
And this to test it

Heres a picture if what I did. I used a light from the vitara cluster. The black wire goes to ignition ground on the back of the cluster. I found the wire in the connector and then traced the metal to a spot I could solder to. The CEL wire is soldered to the other side of the bulb and then connects to the CEL wire from the engine harness, again with a blade connector.

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Integrating the wiring harness
The goal of this step is to supply power to the engine harness, thus you splice it into the sierra engine harness. Fortunately the colors match up between the two harnesses and its outlined in warbirds guide. One major problem I came up with is that Australian sierras to not have a six or three pin connector mentioned in warbirds guide. I searched everywhere for one and couldn't find anything. The guide would make more sense if there was one but the important thing is that all the wires that need to be spliced are outlined. I did all the splicing on the inside of the firewall. I pulled all the necessary wires through the back of the glove box and worked in that space. I did everything with solder but I guess you could use crimp connectors if you wanted to easily revert back to stock.

Below is what I was working with, I know it looks like hell on earth but there are really only a few wires that you need to connect. Just take your time and check wire colors.

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Here you can see the VSS (yellow), tacho (brown) (this can be spliced in here rather than behind the cluster), white (memory), black and white (ignition ground), purple/yellow (CEL). This looks messy now but I tidied it up, hanging wires are easy to riped out with your feet etc. Best to have them all up and out of the way. For the memory wire, warbirds guide says to splice into the clock. I found an empty connector with a memory wire in it behind the dash and just put a blade connector on the engine harness and plugged it in.

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The vitara ECU can be adapted to fit onto the sierra bracket. Warbirds guide talks about this but couldn’t figure it out (I think the brackets are different between countries). I took all the brackets off save one on the opposite side of the plugs, drilled two holes in to match the sierra bracket and screwed then together. Easy.

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To fit it make sure all the wires are out of the way because its a tight fit.


Lastly I installed the vitara engine fuses and relays on some stainless angle. Because of the alternator upgrade I swapped the 60amp fuse for a 100amp. The relay wiring has been tidied since this picture but there’s thermo, alternator sense, and two spotlight harnesses.

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All up my car was off the road for two weeks including getting the new exhaust fitted. If I hadn’t stuffed up that gearbox stud it might have been a week and a half. I did all this work myself and I have to say it is a lot! The one thing I’m glad I did is preparation. I had been planning for a year to do this. Research, look at pictures, go look at someone else’s if you can. Gather parts and figure out how your going to sort out the air intake and fuel before you start. It you have everything ready to go its makes this conversion far easier. I’ll admit after two weeks of working on this every day I was about ready to set it on fire so have a slab or six ready for the end of the day. Finally, I learned so much by doing this! I now know how my car works electrically and all the components in the car that make the engine run. Should any problems come up you will have a much better understanding of how to diagnose and fix them.

I hope this helps everyone.
Rossco

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:37 pm 
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thanks, i owe ya beer :D

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:58 pm 
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Top write up!!! I also suggest to suss out the fuel system and go get all the fittings you need.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:42 pm 
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:goodtech: thanks for putting the time & effort into the write up

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:17 pm 
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I think it would be great to see this in the good tech section so it's easier for me to find when I eventually need it.
very detailed, awesome effort.

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Vehicle: 91 WT 1.6EFI

Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 4:24 pm 
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ok so the engine has been in for about a month and I have been working out some kinks that are easy to avoid.

the first thing I would like to bring up is cleaning out the ERG while the engine is out if the car. here is a link to what I did and symptoms of a blocked ERG viewtopic.php?f=5&t=31068&hilit=g16b+stalling+at+the+lights my post is at the bottom. this isn't a difficult fix but it should be on your prep list before the engine goes into the car.

second I have had some troubles with my fuel tank sender. I usually never use it and just go off of how much I have driven but I have no idea how long the new engine will go between fill ups. anyway I was getting sporadic readings, took it out and cleaned the contacts, still the same. I ended up running a ground strap between the fuel sender and the chassis and this fixed it. so at some point when installing the new tank the ground between the tank and chassis has been interrupted. there is still something there because the tank has no charge however its not enough to make the sender work properly. I CBF pulling the tank out and cleaning the contacts so the strap is my solution for now.

a few more pics. this is what I did for power to my relays. makes everything much neater, its made by narva 30$ from ebay.
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I have two inch redback extractors and they didn't quite clear the engine mount. I solved this by trimming the engine mount a little (just the part that bolts on NOT what is welded to the chasis) and then heating the extractor pipe up a bit and bashing it in with a pipe. this cheated a few more mm and the extractors don't his the mount any more. sorry about the mud
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and finally the finished engine bay. For cooling I run the g16b viscous fan and the 1.3 radiator, absolutely no problems there. I'm going to replace all of the vacuum hoses. this should probably be done in the prep work before the conversion. it costs $20 and it allows you to rule out vacuum leaks if you have future problems. lastly I'm probably going to get some intake hose made to replace my mix and match of parts going from airbox to intake. it will look much cleaner and wont leak air as my set up is sure to do at some point.
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I got a full 2" exhaust put in and it sounds like a rally car now. it is a bit loud so it you don't like exhaust noise I would suggest a resonator as well. I like listening to it now but in a few months I'm sure Ill be over it and put a resonator in. the engine has heaps of power. I cant tell that I'm turning 30s at all and my fuel economy has increased from about 220ks with the 1.3 to about 350ks per tank with the 1.6. that means that in 5 years the engine will pay for itself! if anyone has any questions post up here or PM me and I'll do my best to answer.

Rossco

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 2:34 pm 
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Im posting here just so I can find this again. About to start my conversion this weekend.

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 7:59 am 
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Happy to see this up the top again. I have changed the air intake setup to a vit air box and some stainless pipe. Otherwise Everything else is still going strong.

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:15 am 
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I have had a question about relays and the updated engine bay. Figured I would answer here to that everyone can benefit.

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This is the new location of the computer, the passenger side firewall.

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As per the question I received, relays, part numbers and I threw in wire flavours to.

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:59 am 
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just reminding myself where this post is. ignore message :P

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 12:01 pm 
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That's with the hotwire afm. I used a small 4 blade fusebox to distribute the white/green for the ecu - pump - and another 12v source under the dash, and put the ecu pretty much right up flush with the top of the dash up behind the glovebox.

I also used the spare outputs from the Fuseable link setup for my power into the back of the tintop for acc, another to run my air con compressor for endless air, and the last for spotlights.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:48 pm 
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Something to be aware of - if you delete the brace that runs from the crossover pipe to the exhaust manifold bolts (or otherwise modify the crossover pipe so it's unsupported) keep a keen eye on the rubber hose between the throttle body and the crossover pipe. Mine split in a spot it wasn't easy to see.

It's been replaced with heavy wall silicone now.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 2:23 pm 
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Yep. I cut mine in half and spin it around backwards, bolts back onto the factory location and pulls the cross over pipe right down to stop clearence issue.


Pete.

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