[MrRocky]

This basic loom will run and start both manual and auto coilpack baleno motors. No vss needed, no effect on economy or the way the engine will run.

First step is peeling all the sticky stuff off. It sucks
I keep the fusebox mainly just to save time

[MrRocky]

Ok first 2 wires that dont make it to the first plug are
*black wire/white stripe (2 silver spots) to ignition +
*black wire (single silver spot) to earth -

There is also a thicker white wire with silver spot that wont make it to the plug. Seperate that and save it for later to be joined up elsewhere

[MrRocky]

First plug should have going in
*pink *red/black stripe *grey/silver spot *yellow/blue stripe *brown/white stripe *purple/yellow stripe *purple/white stripe

[MrRocky]

Ok onto second plug that connects to the engine harness.

This plug has going into it
*black/silver spot *pink *red/yellow stripe *red/black stripe *yellow/blue stripe *black/white stripe

[MrRocky]

Now u should be looking at something like this.
Do not cut any of the wires going into the ecu plug

[MrRocky]

Out of the engine harness blue plug comes a bigger red wire with a black stripe and silver spot.
Then out of the ecu plug comes 2 wires of the same colour. Join these wires together. Now run the newly joined wires to the larger wire (red/black stripe silver spot) coming out of the blue plug that goes to the engine harness and splice them in. While your splicing them together run a wire to be connected to ignition (+) from the junction of red/black stripe silver spot.

[MrRocky]

Back to the 2nd post...
Remember the thicker white wire with silver spot.
There is the same colour wire coming out of the ecu plug (this may be slightly thinner)
Join them up

[MrRocky]

By now you will have a nice mess of wires all going nowhere. I cant remember what some of the ones ive deemed not needed are but the useful leftovers are...

*thick pink wire - this is power straight to the + on your fuel pump. I recommend Pierburg pump 7.21287.53.0
*pink wire/green stripe - thermo fan
*brown wire - tacho
*purple wire - check engine light
*yellow wire/black stripe - diagnostic plug
*pink wire/blue stripe - headlight idle up

You will also have a thick black wire/white stripe silver spot and a thin one the same.
These need to be connected to ignition +

[MrRocky]

Once you combine the wires that require ignition +
Your really just left with the power wire to your fuel pump + and one earth
So 3 wires to connect

[bumstein]

Great write up!! Thanks Mr Rocky, this is a huge help!!

Good tech section?

[rexhunta]

That's an amazing write-up Mick, thanks for putting it up. will sure help a lot of people.

[sierrajim]

This is why forums are always better than facebook.

[Joe]

sierrajim wrote:

This is why forums are always better than facebook.

This 100%

[sierrajim]

Hey Mr Rocky, you might be able to help me, I have a 1.6 Baleno motor in my zook, no power steering switch on the pump. It stalls at low revs with steer load. Do i need to ground or power the wire into the ECU to "idle up"?

I assume C16 is the correct wore based on below link?
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technica ... -hope.html

[MrRocky]

Try the neg first i think the headlights are negatively switched from memory but its been ages since ive had to wire it up.
Seems odd that it would stall, ive had a few with no idle up connected and no drama stalling on full lock even with big tyres under load.
Maybe check your idle rpm is correct also
There is alot of wrong pinout diagrams out there so double check the colour with the above description

[fordem]

sierrajim wrote:

Do i need to ground or power the wire into the ECU to "idle up"?

Ground - the power steering pump has a single wire connection.

[sierrajim]

Thanks guys, I'll take a look.

[MrRocky]

On a side note, the issue 99% of people doing this conversion regarding not getting it to start is the crank sensor not being able to read the signal due to being to far away from the crankshaft because of excess goop on the sump or incorrectly welded sensor recess in the sierra sump.
The solution is as easy as shaving a couple of mm of the plastic sensor surround so it sits closer to the crankshaft. You can use bluetack if you want to check the depth before commiting to the chop.

[dean_nz]

Hi guys, long time listener, first time caller here.

I've just wired up my g16b into my 86 sj413 as per the instructions above and am having an issue where the engine will keep running after the key is turned off.

I have checked the power at the black/white stripe wire and it is continuing to read 12v with key off (reads 0v after disconnecting/reconnecting battery).

Also the factory black/white stripe wire goes back to 0v if i disconnect the black/white stripe wire from the ecu.

Unsure where I've gone wrong, or if there is something along the line that holds 12v for memory????

Any thoughts appreciated.

Dean